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Mayday Kitten Help!!!!!

2.9K views 45 replies 17 participants last post by  MourningRain  
#1 ·
My boxer Gabriel has a bad habit of pouncing on small and furry critters, mostly chipmunks. How he catches them is anyone's guess :confused:. Any way, he brought me a surprise today and I thought that it was another dead critter who wasn't fast enough. Well when it meowed as it was trying to get free, I went to the poor things rescue. Aside from being covered in dog drool *sigh* she was in good shape, my dog looked like he had been through a briar patch. I guess this kitten decided she had no interest in being caught. So I put her in a box and put Gab in my truck, off to the vet we went. Only reason I went so soon is I wanted gab's newly acquired scratches looked at so they didn't get infected, plus there is no way in heck he will let me tend them myself. She came back with a clean bill of health (aside from being covered in drool and looking petrified) and no signs of a microchip. For now she is being kept in a doggy play pen, which is covered with a flattened box to keep her from escaping when I'm not present. Gabriel is curious about her, Anna the puppy is just waiting to make friends and the kitten has no clue what to make of it all. She acts friendly towards Anna but she treats Gab like he is her mortal enemy (granted I can't blame her for that.) Here are my problems:

1. I've never had a cat before so I really have no clue on types of litter eetc
2. what is the best brand of food (she's a little over 2 months)
3. Just give me any advice

I'm going to try to find her a good home but if not she can stay with me. If she does then she will be fixed and declawed, to prevent future scratchings if any.
 
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#2 ·
I would have taken her to vet to make sure she didnt get internal injuries and would still rec you do so asap for age guestimate, deworming, and vax if old enough.

How old do you think she is? That will play into what you need to feed. Also, see AmandaB's recent thread on finding her new kitten for a link to raising kittens I posted and more info
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#6 ·
I would have taken her to vet to make sure she didnt get internal injuries and would still rec you do so asap for age guestimate, deworming, and vax if old enough.

How old do you think she is? That will play into what you need to feed. Also, see AmandaB's recent thread on finding her new kitten for a link to raising kittens I posted and more info
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The kitty did go to the vet:thumbsup:
 
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#4 ·
Thank you for rescuing her! I'm so glad that she wasn't hurt.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not declaw her! They do not take just the claws out, they amputate the cats toes to the first knuckle. That can lead to arthritis later in life, litter box problems if it becomes painful for the cat to use scratch in the litter box, and in some cases increased aggression or a cat that bites. Cat bites are worse then scratches and dog bites and can become infected. f the dogs become overly aggressive with her she has had her main defense taken away. If she ever gets out the house she will have a very hard time defending herself from other cats or predators. If she starts having a problem scratching you in play or pricking you with her claws then clip the tips of her claws off. If she's scratching your furniture then try putting soft paws on her.

Since she is so young I recommend a non scoopable litter until she's older. The problem with scoopable litters is that sometimes a kitten tries eating it and it can cause blockages in the digestive system. Once she's a couple months older you can switch to scoopable which is much easier to keep clean, I like Fresh Step scoopable, but experiment and see which one you prefer.

She'll do best on a canned food diet her whole life or minimum half canned, half kibble. Most cats do not drink enough water to compensate for a strictly dry food diet and it can lead to UTIs and constipation. With the canned food pate types like Fancy Feast classics and Friskies are best. The ones with the gravy have more carbs less meat and cats really can't process them since they're obligate carnivores.
 
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#7 ·
Hi!
I have two cats and they have their claws and I find that having their claws are really important to them! They have NEVER scratched anyone or torn up upholstery, etc. They use them for traction when they chase each other and just "show them" to dogs as a warning and dogs will back off...all without ANY of them getting hurt. In any case, as said, if they didn't have claws they would bite....one of my old (18 yr old Siamese) had a leg bite and they had to do major surgery on it bec of the infection...please don't de claw....so cruel and unnecessary, honest!
 
#11 ·
Hi!
I have two cats and they have their claws and I find that having their claws are really important to them! They have NEVER scratched anyone or torn up upholstery, etc. They use them for traction when they chase each other and just "show them" to dogs as a warning and dogs will back off...all without ANY of them getting hurt. In any case, as said, if they didn't have claws they would bite....one of my old (18 yr old Siamese) had a leg bite and they had to do major surgery on it bec of the infection...please don't de claw....so cruel and unnecessary, honest!
Well yes cats can still bite but their main defense is their claws. Claws make flight more effective (imagine how hard it would be to climb a tree without claws) and by the time a cat gets close enough to a large dog (for example) to bite him it would most likely be to late for the bite to be affective.
 
#8 ·
Great, glad she got a check over! I thought just the dog did. ;) How old did doc think she is?

I recently raised up some stray/dumped kittens from about five weeks old. Check out the Alleycat.org site for general kitten care/socialization info. For about the first month, I did canned food twice a day and had kibble available--both grain free since cats are actually carnivores. I also used non-clumping litter, ie at first, I used hogsfuel type mulch, then organic wheat/grass pellets. For containment, I started them in a XL wire dog crate with an extra platform inside for height (cats like to be high) and set it up some footings to bring them up off the floor even more. While they recovered from their spays, I put them in a covered ex-pen, and then eventually they had the run of the room.

If you have your kitten out and about, make sure you do "kitten proofing" as they will swat at, pull, play with, bite, etc whatever they find intriguing (which is pretty much everything). Make sure there aren't places in your house that she can get stuck in (ie bed springs, cabinets, etc.).

Ditto the advisory against declawing--they take the whole first digit, not just the claw, and it is very painful, aside from long term issues with defense, climbing/escape abilities, and handling sensitivities.

Cats can be speutered once they are 2 lbs, but are typically done 3-6 months. IF you are rehoming, do make sure you speuter beforehand, since cat overpopulation/strays are much higher than dogs. :(

Deworming at 6, 8, 12 weeks is a typical spread, or you can just go every month for a few months. There are both oral and topical dewormers, and I'd rec at least the first one be a good broad spectrum from your vet. Vax usually start at 7-8 weeks but talk to your vet about what is appropriate in your area.
 
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#9 ·
I agree about the not declawing at all, but if you do only get the front ones done. I know it's hard to convince people sometimes to not declaw at all but the back ones really just get used for traction and cats don't really do any harm with the back ones at all anyways. I've seen plenty of cats with and without claws (all of ours had their claws and zero problems with scratching) and although the ones that got declawed were fine after they healed, it really wasn't necessary. I'd start by getting a tall scratching post/cat tree-provides a safe place away from the dog to hide and sleep and just be if she wants, and something to scratch if she wants (though I've found my cats really didn't even need that very much, too). Regardless, a high place away from everyone that's comfy and has the option of sunlight is a great way to start.

I agree about the spaying before rehoming if you can afford it, as well. Cat population is a huge problem (at least in my area, I can't imagine it gets that much better elsewhere) and it really gives her a better chance of being rehomed as well.
 
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#10 ·
Oh yes, re: costs of spays, there are many low cost spay options--from vouchers for private clinics to shelter clinics with great prices. So even if rehoming, it should still be a viable option.

Re: scratches, yes, definitely provide her with a post or platform to scratch on, but for scratches on you/your dog today, they were because she was scared and/or unsocialized. Just like with dogs, cats have body language that you should pay attn to which will help decrease her need to be defensive. No need to declaw--work on making/keeping her more comfortable and you should be fine. ;)
 
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#13 ·
To answer your questions:

1) Kind of subjective and down to your preference and your cats. I personally like the clumping litters, and my cats will use them just fine. The brand I usually buy is Scoop Away unscented, but I recently bought a new brand for multiple cats, unscented, from Tractor Supply because it was super cheap (40 pounds for $11 vs $11 for 16 pounds of Scoop Away). So far I like it. I'll have to let you know what brand later because I don't remember off the top of my head.

The reason I like unscented is because I feel like the perfumed varieties are just dustier and the smell of the litter gets so associated with poop that you grow to dislike it all together lol. I also haven't tried the more biodegradable type litters, so I can't really tell you much about those. You might have to try a few to see what you like and what works. Some cats will refuse to use certain litters if they don't like the smell or texture. Others could care less.

2) Again, kind of subjective. Depends on the cat and your pocketbook. I buy my cats a grain free food. We switch around quite a bit. They've had Natural Choice, Wellness, Wilderness, and something else holistic that I can't remember the name of. Right now we're feeding Wellness protein focused formula. Mine all seem to have iron stomachs and can handle whatever. Switches don't upset them at all. Your cat may be more sensitive to certain foods, so you'll have to take note. Might be a good idea to buy small bags first, then buy the bigger bulk bags when you know what works.

Also, I personally avoid fish formulas. It's actually fairly common for cats to have or develop fish allergies, and I'm pretty sure that my oldest cat does have that issue. I may try Taste of the Wild next, just to be sure that it was fish and not something else.

I've also heard some say that cats do better on a canned diet, so you can always consider that too.

And 3) Please don't declaw her. If you clip her nails regularly, they cause practically no damage. Mine can't even pop an air mattress when their claws are trimmed. There are also soft-caps you can glue. And ideally, the dog and cat will never be allowed to be in a situation where a serious fight can occur.
 
#14 ·
Ditto tb. I always forget the Soft Claws red.

Fwiw, I have read that young kittens should be started with non-clumping because of the chance they will try eating it and causing gi blockage. But then the site said that once they are a little older/litter trained switching to clumping is fine. I have heard of clumping litter causing blockages in dogs who snack from litter boxes, so if you (general) go that route, something to be aware of.

I had actually just bought a bag of corn based clumping litter when the rescue finally had room for them (now 13ish weeks) at the center this week. Figured they would be smart enough about it by now. :) it was the Worlds Best product.

I will have to find the name of the wheat/grass pellet litter I used/liked the most. I did try small bags of Yesterdays News and the WheatScoop and strongly disliked them....
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#15 ·
Ditto tb. I always forget the Soft Claws red.

Fwiw, I have read that young kittens should be started with non-clumping because of the chance they will try eating it and causing gi blockage. But then the site said that once they are a little older/litter trained switching to clumping is fine. I have heard of clumping litter causing blockages in dogs who snack from litter boxes, so if you (general) go that route, something to be aware of.

I had actually just bought a bag of corn based clumping litter when the rescue finally had room for them (now 13ish weeks) at the center this week. Figured they would be smart enough about it by now. :) it was the Worlds Best product.

I will have to find the name of the wheat/grass pellet litter I used/liked the most. I did try small bags of Yesterdays News and the WheatScoop and strongly disliked them....
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That's interesting....I've never had a kitten try and eat litter? If that's the case I'm not sure the traditional clays would be much better. The corn based clumping litter seems nice. How much does it cost?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I think it's more a concern about them ingesting litter on paws when grooming themselves more than actually eating? Could be wrong though...

Fwiw, I use World's Best as well and really like it.
I picked it mostly because I was worried about my dogs getting into litter boxes every once in a while.:p

It's costlier than other litters but I think it lasts longer. Clumps well so is really easy to scoop and does a surprisingly good job with odors.

I bought one of the huge bags (something like 28-30lbs for $30) and have been using it for probably 4 months now and still have some left so for us it def evens out!
 
#17 ·
I think it's more a concern about them ingesting litter on paws when grooming themselves more than actually eating? Could be wrong though...

Fwiw, I use World's Best as well and really like it.
I picked it mostly because I was worried about my dogs getting into litter boxes every once in a while.:p

It's costlier than other litters but I think it lasts longer. Also is really easy to scoop and does a surprisingly good job with odors.

I bought one of the huge bags (something like 28-30lbs for $30) and have been using it for probably 4 months now and still have some left so for us it def evens out!
30 pounds for $30? x.x

I'm not sure how long my litter usually lasts.

Also, speaking of eating litter from grooming..

I suggest the OP to get a mat to put outside the litter box. Otherwise you'll find litter tracked across the room. One of mine would go pee, and then LEAP in just a few bounds out of the laundry room, across the room, and onto my bed. I started closing the door to the bedroom because we got tired of constantly brushing off little particles of kitty litter :eyeroll:
 
#18 · (Edited)
Oh, I know! Pricey!
But I'll get at least 5-6 months out of that bag so really that's no more than $5-6 a month. Still more than a lot of other litters but I don't have to worry to terribly much about the dogs ingesting it!

Penny and now Dexter have actually climbed furniture to get to the litter boxes! So for me it's worth the peace of mind!:p
 
#19 ·
De clawing cats...

I've been around for 65 years, and have been around and had many cats throughout my life... I had never heard of de-clawing until a few years ago... It was never done in Denmark (where I'm from) and I've never heard of it done in Australia either...

Maybe it's an American thing?
 
#20 ·
I've never heard of it in iceland or the uk either, didn't hear about it until I started watching an american show about cats.
 
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#21 ·
Around her there are a lot of farms that have barn cats so who knows which one she came from. I think her man reason for clawing Gabriel is because he was trying to catch her. Now she hates him, I think. Okay, seeing as what you all said about the declawing thing I'll just go with the soft paws. What are they exactly? Yesterday I got some fresh step litter (scoopable) and some dry food to give her. So I'll go out today and get some nonscoopable and wet food as well. I think I can handle the scratching post at home. I have some old pieces of carpet and I know a construction guy who may be able to give me the lumber. The place has already been kitten proofed, my bed has a box spring that is on the ground. Its just called follow her around and see what she does. Its mostly Gab she has issues with, she loves Anna.

Still my question is what are soft paws?


Anyone want a pic of her. Still hunting for a name.
 
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#22 ·
Yes please! Photos are a must!:D

Soft paws are just little rubber caps that you put on claws.
Alternatives to Declawing, Nail Caps for Cats
Image


Def an option for a cat who really likes to scratch things it shouldn't!;)

Since she's young you could just get her used to having her nails trimmed (same as a dog). That's what I do with my guy. He loves to knead me as he sits in my laps. So as soon as I feel any sharp nails or nails sticking to my clothing, I just get the clippers and a few treats. Trim, treat, and done!

And having several trees and scratching posts around the house often helps as well!:)
 
#24 ·
Do soft paws only come in blue? I'm guessing no but I'm curious, where can I buy them?

I'm also up for suggestions on a name for her. Something about how she was found, which was in my dogs mouth.

The one picture of her on the counter was her version of trying to help back, only got a few specks of flour on her. Sadly there was hair in the batter because of her and I had to start over *sigh*.
 

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#25 · (Edited)
Awww....
so cute!

I'll have to think on names for how she was found...

But since she's black and and came to you right before Halloween....
Raven, Spirit, Ash (had to throw this one is since I just watched the original Evil Dead yesterday), Goblin, Sabrina, Wednesday or Morticia, Fang (Could be kinda related to how she was found?)...

As for soft paws, I've never bought them but would imagine you could find them at pet stores like Petsmart and Petco as well as plenty of places online. I do know that they come in a bunch of different colors.:)
 
#27 ·
Well she was covered in it... fang sounds like a neat name. Unusual for a cat name.



Would it be a good plan to put id tags on her collar or just get her chipped. I'm planning on doing both any way, but I'm just curious. Well she already has a collar with a tag that only has my phone number on it since she doesn't have a name yet.
 
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#29 ·
One of our friends has a cat named Bloodbath....

As for your kitty...

Jezebel: Wife of Ahab (King of Israel). She was eaten by dogs.
 
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#33 ·
Collars are a good idea in theory, but I for one won't put them on my cats anymore. Usually they come off the cat somehow, and worst case scenario is the cat hangs herself. Cats do so much climbing that they end up getting caught on stuff.

Microchip is a must though.

As others have said, leave the claws on. You make her a disabled cat if you amputate. She won't be able to climb or properly defend herself.
 
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#34 ·
The stray that I took in was wearing a collar when I found him. It was a toy dog collar and whomever put it on him had it fitted tight so that he couldn't catch it on anything. Unfortunately, while it didn't seem to be bothering him, it was also tight enough to have rub his neck raw in one place. Once I noticed that I took the collar off and let him run around without it and when I brought him to the vet to be scanned I gave it to the tech to send home with him when it turned out he was chipped. I also let her know why I took it off.
 
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#35 ·
Just a thought, my indoor/outdoor cat has a breakaway collar that separates when it is caught...admittedly I have to go look for it all the time and have lost two of them...but I don't want anyone taking my cat cause she didn't have a collar and they didn't want to get her scanned at a vet's office. I buy inexpensive collars for her so no sweat if she loses one, or two, lol. I even bought her an illuminated LED collar for the winter months so I could track where she is in the dark outside if she gets out during the cold months.
 
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