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General tips for new cat owner?

1.7K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  daisylynn  
#1 ·
So I had cats when I was younger, but I never really actually paid attention as to how they were supposed to be kept..:eek:
The kitten is 6 months old and long haired. Her name is Dixi. I'm going to be taking her to get fixed and get her shots... But I have a few questions...

Does she have to be brushed?

What is a good cat food? I know cats are strictly carnivors, but I refuse to feed raw food in my room... That could get really messy really fast... :ponder:

How much should I feed her? I really don't want to free feed. I would actually like to train her to follow cues like I would a dog.

Anyone have a cat that has a harness/collar on it? Do they adjust well?

When I was younger, I'd change the box whenever mom told me to... But seriously, how often should I wash it rather than just scoop?

Sorry if these are stupid questions... Thanks for the reply!
 
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#2 ·
You don't have to feed raw--look for high meat content grain free foods. :) There was a cat food thread fairly recently you can check out. Canned food is better for them for hydration and urinary health. How much depends on the food--there will be guidelines just like for dogs.

There is also a cat litter thread by leaveittoweaver. As far as cleaning, I prefer cleaning once a day or every other day. The cleaner, the healthier, and the better the box training will go. With our old cat, we used litter pan liners, which cuts down on the cleaning of the actual pan. If you get a covered box a) find a dust free litter and b) make sure you clean the top part and the seams if you go the liner route. If you go without a liner (I have with my fosters because it's less expensive and why add more bags...) I rinsed out the pans as needed, ie if there was crap stuck to it and every time I completely changed out the litter rather than topping off.

Brushing goes as needed. You'll notice how long it takes before she starts to mat, so stay ahead of it. :) Probably get her used to brushing now (same as dogs, lots of yummies).
 
#3 ·
It's best to feed canned food and avoid the types with "gravy" the gravy tends to be high in sugar which is bad for cats and they are lower in meat, the pate type is the best to get. Evo is a great canned food to go with but if you go with grocery store brands then fancy feast and friskies pate types are the best bet. If you don't want to go strictly canned then at least aim for half canned half kibble and get the kibble with the highest percentage of meat you can find. Cats generally do not drink enough water to compensate for an all kibble diet and it can set them up for UTI's like Crock said. For how much to feed a little less then the amount suggested on the package and adjust accordingly as you notice if the cat is gaining or loosing to much weight. I never free fed my cat, he would have been morbidly obese if I had, I fed him twice a day like I did the dogs and he was free to eat it all at once or graze on it.

You have to brush a long haired cat, if you don't they will develop mats, how quickly that will happen depends on the cat. My cat had med length hair and I had to brush him a few times a week, the hair in his armpits would mat if I wasn't careful. Also I've found that cats shed at least as much, if not more, then dogs so brushing helps with that, they also bathe themselves and brushing them will cut down on the amount of hair that they ingest.

I used a scoopable litter and scooped multiple times a day, it was rare that there was more then two clumps in the box (if I didn't keep it scooped the dogs would help clean it). I usually washed the box once a month.

A couple of other tips:

Scratching post: The best kinds are very sturdy, have multiple levels, and have multiple types of surfaces to scratch on. Look for one that has both rope and carpet, and vertical and horizontal surfaces for the cat to scratch on. Play with the cat on the post, sprinkle cat nip on it, and actively encourage her to use it. Redirect her to the post if you catch her scratching on anything else.

Toys: Interactive toys are best, toys that move so that they can chase them, toys like cat wands (flirt poles) are usually a big hit. Be very careful if the toys include attached bells, my friend had a cat who chewed one of the bells off of a toy and swallowed it.

Have fun with her! I really miss having a cat and still wish I could have kept Kit Kat.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
I picked Arm and Hammer kitty litter. No issues yet! And it seems to absorb most smells... I'm scooping every couple days because she doesn't seem to go enough to require more... She's such a dainty little cat...

I'm not feeding her dry food anymore, I out rightly refuse to because Friskies dry food is gross and I can't go grain free yet. She's getting an average of 1/2 a can a day, and about 10 treats. She looks like she's losing weight... Is this normal? I'd feed her the whole can, but when I do, she only eats 1/2 and wastes the rest.

She's shedding like crazy and her nails are huge, but I haven't bought a brush or nail clippers. Even if I have, it should be fun trying to get her to hold still. Same goes for the collar situation. I want her to have one, I just haven't bought it and I don't know how I'm going to get it on her...

I bought a flirt pole, but I think the mouse at the end is too big and it scares her. I'll go shopping for more appropriate toys. I found some beautiful cat tress at Pet Quarters, but they started at 200$... She doesn't seem to be interested in more than trying to climb my window screen while yowling...

She is coming out slowly, but she's still hiding a lot too. I see her perched on my tv late at night, which is great. But I wish I could find her sleeping there one morning. Her instant reflex to hide for days when something makes a small bump makes me keep her in my bedroom. The first time my nephew rushes up to her and she's going to be hiding for weeks. Best to take that slow.

Just one day at a time, I guess.
 
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#10 ·
She looks like she's losing weight... Is this normal? I'd feed her the whole can, but when I do, she only eats 1/2 and wastes the rest.
While she is getting used to your home I would give her a feeding of kibble if that's what she loves just to make sure she is getting enough.

She's shedding like crazy and her nails are huge, but I haven't bought a brush or nail clippers.
I have 5 different scratching posts around the house, each different in shape and surface. It's a hit and miss often but I cheat! I spray a bit of water on it and sprinkle some dried catnip on it and it's a hit while it's on! ;)
I also noticed that one of my cats loved to use the corner of the couch so I bought a small piece of the same material and stapled it to the scratching board and treated it with catnip and she loves it! :)

I bought a flirt pole, but I think the mouse at the end is too big and it scares her.
Have it around so she can sniff it and look at it at her own pace - catnip on it wouldn't hurt either. :p
Try some smaller ones - maybe a toy with feathers on the end?

She doesn't seem to be interested in more than trying to climb my window screen while yowling...
Is there anyway to put up a little shelf under your window so she can lie down and stare out? Mine love that!

She is coming out slowly, but she's still hiding a lot too.
I would let her do this at her own pace but you can do a few things to help her.

- Take a t-shirt or a soft sweater that smells like you and put it somewhere she likes to sleep. Many cats like to find little odd spots like in a closet or under the bed (especially in a new home) or somewhere high up. You can also rub a towel on your other animals and have it handy to her so she can get used to the smells.
- Maybe have a radio on (on low) in the room.
- If you are enjoying a book, maybe sit down where she can come to you and read out loud in a soft voice.

Some cats feel more safe in an enclosed space (like a covered carrier left open) but some feel more safe high up. You can set something up for her wherever she feels the safest?

Just one day at a time, I guess.
That's how she goes with cats! Hopefully, before you know it, she will be the queen bee of the house! ;)

Ohh and on a crazy cat lady note (that would be me), I truly swear this is true!
Soft blinks with your eyes convey some sort of a secret message that you will get returned one day! But cat's find staring rude so don't stare in her eyes unless you do a couple of soft blinks!
You might also note that if you are sat down somewhere and she lies down with her bumm facing you, she does not see you as a possible threat so it's a fine start!
If she is lid down and she has all paws curled up under her - more than likely that's her saying that she want's peace. :p :eek:

Edited to add - please post some pictures! :p
 
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#5 ·
When it comes to feeding, I am not sure how much is in the can of food your feeding, but my male he's aprox 10lbs eats 1 can a day plus a few freeze dried chicken pieces in between. So just make sure she's getting enough. Also in regards to the wasting, maybe **if this isn't what you already tried** do half the can in the am and half in the pm. You mentioned your going to the vet, they will know with her weight, how much she should aprox be eating (of course it will vary a little depending on the calories in your food but they will give you a general idea)

Also in regards to food, my cat is on vet food, prior to that he was on the Ideal Balance (which has dry and wet formula)

nails, how fun, I've been doing mines since he was 8 weeks old and its still some days a challenge. Best advice that I ever received on that note was to wrap them in a towel so that they can't really fight you, and start with their back legs (they'll use those first to try to escape) and then do the front two. to start, I would do one nail, let her go, and just repeat till its done. Also, don't try to take a lot off at one time, only take a little and go from there, its best to do that rather than hit the quick (then it will be super hard to get her to want it done again)

My guy goes on a harness when he has his supervised outside time. It took awhile for him to "put up with it" he still doesn't like it, but they get used to using them. I personally don't keep a collar on him all the time / I'd be worried Kyra would pull on it.

I clean my box daily - if not twice daily. I do a whole litter change (where I also wash the box) once a month, I would say it would be a matter of preference how often you want to do that but I just scoop out the soiled and about once a week add a little bit more litter. I use the worlds best and I personally love it.
 
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#6 ·
If you get her microchipped, and she is indoors only, I would forgo a collar. Cats don't really need it, and it can wear the fur off. Ditto on the harness. You have to be careful taking a cat outside on a harness as well, as they can dart and freak out. I tried training my cat to it for fun, and stopped at about the 5th outing as she suddenly tried chasing something, hit the end of the leash, and flew back.

I would suggest something like this to help with the hairballs. My cat has shorthair, but gets hairballs periodically, and this always helps her when she starts hacking.

For the nail trimming, honestly the easiest thing is to counter condition it like you would a dog. I spent a few months building up my cat's tolerance to having her nails clipped...basically spent time each day touching one nail, then treating, and worked up to a clip, then treating. Now she gets really happy when she sees the nail clipper and stays very still for the nail clippings, purrs the whole way through, no treats needed any more.
 
#7 ·
I'm no expert but I live with three cats so I'll try to help.

I don't always remember to scoop the boxes :S but I completely dump and clean them every 3 days so it's not so bad. The amount you clean them really depends on the cat and what they eat. A good quality food will make litter box cleaning less awful.

The general rule is that kittens eat a lot. If it seems like she's losing weight I would feed her more, don't worry about her being overweight just yet as it's really hard to end up with a fat kitten. Feed small meals 2 or 3 times a day so that the food doesn't get gross.

Grooming stuff- Yes, she'll probably need to be brushed at minimum every two weeks to prevent mats and so she gets used to it. Doing nails is easiest when the cat is asleep or sleepy. You can just use human nail clippers. And don't forget to give treats afterwards! Same with brushing fur and brushing teeth. Always end with treats!

I never had much luck with collars. My cats take them off the second they're left alone so I don't have any tips for making that work.

For cat trees Amazon usually has sales on. I recommend everyone have a nice cat tree. On top of them helping save your furniture, having high places to perch often makes cats feel safer, especially if it allows them to get out of reach of other pets or kids. The more high places the better.

A laser pointer can really help tire her out, as well as a "da bird" toy. Cats will also play with household things just fine(with supervision). Bottle caps, twist ties, paper bags, boxes, shoe laces, things like that. They can also learn to use puzzle toys just like dogs should you find she's really food motivated in the future.

So.. where are all the cute pics? :)
 
#8 ·
Does she have to be brushed?
It depends on the hair length. Short to mid-range hair cats don't typically need brushing or any type of grooming. Some cats will fastidiously groom themselves while others let themselves go. Some longer hair cats need help, for example, our Persian needs frequent brushing.

What is a good cat food?
The big concern here is Feline Urinary Syndrome. Cheap foods, mostly dry ones, can trigger it in some cats. We're current using a veterinary anti-FUS formula for our cats because it's the only thing that keeps our pesky Persian healthy.

In general, any of the high quality cat foods with high meat/protein content will work. I prefer dry food since it make litter box cleaning less messy/stinky.

How much should I feed her? I really don't want to free feed.
We free feed since we have multiple cats. Unlike dogs, most cats won't eat quickly unless starved or threatened. Free feeding reduces stress, at least it has for us.

I would actually like to train her to follow cues like I would a dog.
Some cats will do this, others won't. Our Maine Coon and Persian will follow some cues to get treats but the other 2 don't seem to get it.

Anyone have a cat that has a harness/collar on it? Do they adjust well?
Most don't. We've owned a lot of cats over the past 30 years and none of them really put up with it well.

But seriously, how often should I wash it rather than just scoop?
We replace all the litter in all 4 boxes about every 10 days. Scooping only goes so far. We replace the boxes themselves about every year. You may get away with less with just one cat but remember a dirty box encourages the cat to find a new bathroom spot!

I don't like the clumping litter. It tends to clump on long hair cat behinds. We use pine bedding pellets and this works well for our cats.
 
#9 ·
Does she have to be brushed?
I would brush her every couple of days if you can, she might not need it that often but if she will love it like mine do then it's a great bonding time and at least she is used to it! :p

What is a good cat food? I know cats are strictly carnivors, but I refuse to feed raw food in my room... That could get really messy really fast... :ponder:
Any kind of pate wet food is better for them than any kibble!
You might have to buy a couple of different ones to try (I don't feed a lot of the fish ones, once a week probably).

How much should I feed her? I really don't want to free feed. I would actually like to train her to follow cues like I would a dog.
I would put a can of wet food in a bowl (stainless steel or glass) and put her in the room with it for an hour, pick it up and cover it and put it in the fridge and feed her again around supper (just add a bit of warm water to the food, my cat's dislike cold food) and I would then feed her again when you go to bed. As someone pointed out - it's hard to end up with an overweight kitten.

Anyone have a cat that has a harness/collar on it? Do they adjust well?
I can't keep a collar on any of them! They must be the smartest cats on the planet because they get every kind of collars off! :eek:
Instead of a harness, I am building a little outside enclosure for them o they don't have to wear anything! :)

When I was younger, I'd change the box whenever mom told me to... But seriously, how often should I wash it rather than just scoop?
I scoop 1-2 daily and wash it completely every week or so.
I use the Blue Buffalo walnut based litter and love it! So much better than clay! But whatever works for you and the cat! ;)

Sorry if these are stupid questions... Thanks for the reply!
No stupid questions out there when it comes to animals! ;)
 
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#11 ·
A couple of things that popped in mind..

If you can, get her some cat grass and put it somewhere where she can chew on it in peace.. Maybe in a window or something?

And my cats favorite toys are - drinking straws - individual egg trays - cotton swabs and rolled up foil.... I have spent hundreds on toys but these are the go to toys around here... :eyeroll:
 
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#12 ·
I've had great luck feeding my cats on a schedule. Any newbies to the household get time to adjust - I allow them to free-feed for several days, then I gradually switch to the schedule, leaving some dry food down while getting them used to meal times. It takes about 2-3 weeks and sometimes tantrums, but they adjust. I feed wet food and they get 15 minutes before it's picked up. Cats don't naturally drink water (they learn to), so they need the moisture from the wet food.

I had a cat who weighed 17lbs when I brought him home and his belly dragged near the floor. He was 12 years old. He dropped to about 14lbs and stayed there for the rest of his life. His belly was dramatically reduced and he stayed mobile and reasonably fit for an old cat.

Congrats on your new addition!
 
#13 ·
k, so cutting the nails didn't go well... She got super mad that we were holding her down and touching her paws. Mom got a couple of scratches but that was it. She didn't bite, which is good! I would've loved to condition her more to it with treats or something, but her claws were long and I got worried about them curling into her paws.

She still loves me. She came out and rubbed against me before going behind the dresser... So I assume she'll be ok.
 
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#14 ·
So she went on an adventure through out the apartment for the last 4 days. I let her go because she's grown leaps and bounds in my room. We found her today very scared in a corner and losing weight. As soon as she came back to my room, she settled right down and is now loving up on mom and I and eating more canned food. I'm entirely sure I need to introduce her to the rest of the apartment a little slower than just letting her wander out by herself... But I'm not sure how to go about it... Any suggestions? I think maybe conditioning her to a harness/leash might help... Or maybe a thundershirt?
 
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#15 ·
Here's a link to some useful information: Introducing Your Cat to a New House | ASPCA

It's been awhile since we've had my cat, but I think what I did was keep her in my room for a week or so and then she found her way out(the door doesn't shut fully). My house doesn't exactly have different rooms. It's very open, so I'd block of areas with poster boards and she'd venture out, but then I'd keep her in my room at night.

I don't think a harness/leash will help. Generally cats don't like harnesses and they don't walk on leashes. Just try gradually letting her explore, don't just let her go off on her own and get scared. Maybe bring her carrier to the new areas so she has a familiar place to hide.
 
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#17 ·
Maybe try making the downstairs stress free. That's pretty much the way my cat got used to our home. The only ones who come upstairs are me and my brother. No dogs. No loud noises. The cat didn't come downstairs for probably a month or so and even then it was when the dog was outside. She still isn't always comfortable downstairs and it's been 3 years. She's alright with being downstairs and teases the dog, but she's practically a whole different cat when she's alone with me in my room(the first room she was introduced to).

Just make sure you do give her places to hide. Maybe get boxes or set up some places where she can get up higher. She's going to want to hide. I wouldn't worry too much about the time it's taking. Cats aren't exactly as outgoing as dogs are. Woody was used to the house in a week. The cat still isn't used to every room. There are still some rooms that she'll slink around but run at the slightest noise.
 
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#18 ·
Dixie has become happy to roam the rest of the house at night and retreat to my room in the morning for a nap.

She's pissed right now because I won't let her out. She goes to the vet in the morning and I don't want to play hide and go seek through the apartment. My dresser is the closest I want to come to unmovable.

I think she loves me? She makes it a nightly habit to visit me and curl up in my lap. But her body language confuses me really bad... She exibits calming signals (lip licking, yawning...) even as she looks happy and relaxed. Her tail twitches like she's annoyed... But she doesn't move? When I stop patting her she rubs up against me for more? Her eyes dilate like she's terrified, but again, she doesn't move? I don't want to push her, but I have no idea what her body language means most of the time.
 
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