Have you tried extensive exercise? If you have the ability to, do your exercise in the morning and evenings when it cools down and then you might have more luck in a pooped puppy.

There are also cooling pads or something for dogs, I think, that you might be able to use/utilize. Just be sure that when you do your exercise you have a lot of water and take breaks in the shade (if available).

 

What breed are we talking, here?

If she is getting on the case of your older dog, I would separate them for now. Puppies don't always have the impulse control to get along with less patient adult dogs, and the adult's (understandable) rebuffing of their rudeness just sends them into an absolute tizzy.

 

I`m not a specialist, but in my limited experience it could be either not enough exercise or too much excitment/exercise.

My 14 month old dog goes crazy on both occasions. What works for us - lots of exercise (this consists of running in/hanging around the yard for several hours a day+ minimum 30 min walk when in city/60 min when in country or calmer areas + trick/obiedence training) combined with a down-time.

My dog doesn`t have a crate but we use the kitchen as a crate. When she comes inside (usually during lunch-time and in the evening) she gets about 15 min time out in the kitchen alone - this gives her the oppurtunity to calm down from all the excitment and actually relax and fall asleep. After she`s calmed down/sleeping, I open the kitchen door and she moves on to the other rooms and is relaxed and not hyper. If I wouldn`t give her the time out in the kitchen she`d just do what your dog does - zoom around and chew everyone/everything and be really annoying while doing so.

Crating is a really good idea . But make sure she gets enough exercise and training too - mental work really exhaustes them well. If it`s too hot, you can do training inside.

 

Do you do any training with this dog? Exercise isn't all dog's need. Engaging their minds often makes a big difference. Bored dogs often find it hard to settle down. It sounds to me like you may need to consult with a trainer who can show you how to teach this dog to settle and how to get a handle on structuring the training to fit this dog's personality.

If you don't clicker train, you should start. I agree about keeping the dogs separated until you get a training plan in place and start to see some progress.

 

I think challenging her mind could perhaps help the puppy.
How about having a bit "alone time" with your dog every day, without other family members and the other dog.
Some dogs need to know clearly who's the one important person they belong to, so trying to bond them closely to you as the master is even more important than everything else imo.

In that alone time, perhaps go to a surrounding that is not exciting. at all ..I'm spending my daily "doggie-time" in the garden.
because of her hyper behaviour, I'd do a lot impuls control games.
training "stop" during a tug game or only let her get the ball after you allow it.
put a treat/toy on the ground and she's not allowed to have it.
What's a cool game even with a puppy, if it is food motivated, is "searching yummie stuff". go and hide treats in the garden, on the walk or in your room and the dog isn't allowed to search until you give the command.
the most dogs I know like that game and it is easy to understand for a puppy.
even though they may seem simple, these games can be very challenging for a young dog, so it's it is probably tired afterwards. perhaps, then sit down beside its blanket/dogbed, let it lay down there and reward quiet behaviour with quiet praising, treats or pet it.

With a very excited dog I'd try to be silent or work with quiet and clear commands, not too much extreme praising not too much exciting areas. socialising is important, but the dog must be able to handle the new experience if it is all hysterical, it can't learn.


I don't know if this helps you, because it is really depending on the dogs...but my dog likes to be held when he's very excited and being touched by his people calms him down really fast. I just put an arm around him, or if he's lying down, I hold him in place with one hand and cuddle him with the other.

about your other dog:
You are the master. So it is YOUR job to "protect" your dogs. This goes both ways. In my opinion the older shouldn't learn that it is okay to "solve" problems by itself, so you should really stop the puppy from annoying the older dog before it is escalating...that shows your older dog that you are there to protect him/her and that they don't need to handle this and your puppy learns to respect your rules.
In times when you can't supervise them you have to separate them.

 

what do you feed? Some foods can even out the blood sugar and have a calming effect on dogs. Some are full of corn sugar and sugar and food coloring that can cause hyperactivity.

 

Sounds exactly like how my border collie was when he was a pup. What breed is this dog?

 

OP posted in another thread that this is a BC/Shepherd cross.

 

Sounds pretty common for a dog that needs more mental stimulation. Long walks/runs would help her get the energy out without bothering the other dogs. Also you could use those walks to work on engaging the dogs mind. Working on heeling and teaching the dog to focus on you. Teaching leave its.

I know what it is like to have a high energy dog. I have a 1 year old aussie that would go for hours if you allow him. They need exercise all around, mental and physical. We are starting agility work with the aussie.

Also as far as far as shaving the dog it would be counter produtive. Dogs with double coats use that hair to keep them warm in the winter, as well as keep them cool when it is hot. Shaving the coat could actually really throw off the dog's ability to cool themselves. They do make coling pads and cooling vests if you are worried. Also keep water available.

 

She is in obedience training and just finished a class in nose work. On the last class no one else showed up and we spent an hour doing nose work with the trainer. She is brilliant when it comes to obedience. The problem is she has never ending energy and gets overstimulated very easily.

She does have good focus, but she looses her mind when she gets excited. The scent work trainer wasn't the best, as he got her even more excited (working for a toy).

You can't pet her as it seems like that is too stimulating. The more exercise she gets, the worse her hyperness is.

She ran at full speed into my mom last night and knocked her down. My mom is going to be getting X rays tomorrow as she can't put weight on her knee.

I just don't know where she gets so much energy. If she wasn't getting worked, I could understand it, but she gets a lot of exercise and attention.

I was planning on starting agility with her, as soon as we get her hips checked. At least the basics, no jumping as she is still young.

The dogs get separated every night and sometimes during the day as well. Right now she is in the crate inside as it was too hot out.

I think my other dog is reacting to her hyperactivity as he is old and arthritic and she rams into him and shoulders him around. She is so fast when she does this it is hard to get to her in time, to separate.

She is like a child, no only means no for 30 seconds and then she forgets. He bites her, she is sorry, then she forgets about it. I don't think she is overly dominate as she never tries to fight back and always looks sorry, but she just has not been able to control herself. Nor does she seem to understand what she is getting bitten for!

The ramming into him, and running into our legs is a problem! I don't think she means too do these things, it just happens.

Mathilda- I wish I could cuddle her, as I said she really doesn't like being touched. I might be easier just to crate her anytime she gets out of control.

I do wonder if I physically restrained her and started touching her all over every day, if that would help some of this sensitivity to touch.

I'm not sure how to teach her not to ram into us, or our older dog though? She is much more careful around us, but clearly not enough after last night's incident.

At least she has learned bite control! Thank goodness that hurdle has been crossed.

 

BC/shepherd....Honestly, I hate to tell ya, but that sounds like typical behavior for a pup that age of that type of breed or mix. They are working dogs. They're not going to act like your typical pet house dog.

Tigger was the exact same way; he is working bred, pure BC. You've actually made better progress than I did if you managed to teach yours not to bite. I couldn't touch Tigger without him mouthing or getting overstimulated. I gave up and basically just let him bite me and focused instead on getting him to at least be gentler with his mouth. That worked better. He wasn't a cuddle or pet puppy. He was a play puppy and I accepted that and decided that if I was going to interact with him, it was going to be playful and involve teeth.

We worked on things like "go crazy then be calm". So I would purposefully overstimulate him, and then ask for focus. It took practice, but eventually even in his "go crazy" mode, he gained full control of himself. We used "go crazy" as a reward for focus and obedience to cues. We worked especially hard on impulse control, again with "go crazy" and being able to let it all go as the reward. These are the types of activities that will let you get control of her drive and focus it where and how you want.

Don't over exercise her or try to exhaust her. You will make it worse. They will turn into adrenaline junkies. You have to TEACH them to sit still TEACH them how to stay busy without being obnoxious or destructive. They don't come with off switches like most pet dog puppies. For example if I was doing homework or working on something, I basically INSISTED that my dog only have the option to either sleep, or chew on a bully stick or kong or something. I'd play with him first and do some training, then I kept him in the area with me, removed everything from the floor, kept the cats away, and severely limited his options by making everything else either boring or not possible. He didn't get much of a choice. If he started to do an unapproved activity, he would be brought back to the area and be given the chew. Over and over. I had to do the same thing to teach him to sleep at night.

He didn't really become "petable" until maybe a year or year and a half. He didn't become more cuddley until 2 years or 2 and a half. He's 3 now and it's taken him that long to mellow out. He still has tons of energy and will act like a psycho, running around the house and yelling and jumping. But he's not nearly as busy anymore, and even when he's overstimulated, he still has his head.

 

Sounds like an awesome working pup to me. Welcome to the club :thumbsup: The nose work trainer wasn't bad, he was doing exactly what you do with working dogs especially in nosework as food is a counterproductive reward.
The exercise/mental stimulation is a start, but I would also suggest some scheduled daily crate time, focussing on the times you would like her to be calm. I'd also highly suggest researching "drive capping" by the sounds of it, your pup will need this included in your training. Don't worry it sounds negative or aversive, but it has nothing to do with punishment or correction

 

She is like a child, no only means no for 30 seconds and then she forgets. He bites her, she is sorry, then she forgets about it. I don't think she is overly dominate as she never tries to fight back and always looks sorry, but she just has not been able to control herself. Nor does she seem to understand what she is getting bitten for!

I think that's the point.
she's still a child...with a toddler, you'd also not discuss, you'd also try to guide them away gently from dangerous situation (like getting bitten by your older dog until she's bleeding).
As long as the situation is not solved I'd only let them two have contact you right beside them and can immediately take her out of the situation before it escalates.
According to my experiences German Shepherds are also maturing more slowly than other breeds. So be prepared for a few more years of craziness.
I like BC and Schäfis...but they are both high energy breeds, so I suppose a certain energetical life style is also part of her being her.
The working dog energy and the bullyness and the gruff way that a lot of Schäfis interact with other dogs in combination with the "sensitive genius" in a lot of border collies...you've got a cool but not an easy dog there.
You try not to overstimulate her, while keeping her mentally occipied.

Also:This is my personal opinion... but I'd focus on nose work and obedience more than on agility. Agility can in some cases be to exciting for dogs that get overstimulated fast. Instead of that I'd choose a calmer activity.
working with toys is not uncommon with working dogs btw.

Do you tried using the lead inside the house (we'd call it "hausleine"/"house leash" in Germany, but I can't find an English translation)? With a leash you'd have direct control on her, so you can stop her before she gets into trouble. You can also keep her on her place, when you don't want her to run around.
I personally prefered that with my own dogs, cause it easier to get them a quick feedback, when they do something you want to correct and you can go from one to another room without them being out of my supervision.
I personally don't like crates, since they look so uncomfortable for the dog. Also it sounds to me more like managing the dog's behaviour instead of solving the problem.
However a dog that doesn't behave should also not roam free as it pleases, so having the dog with me all the times seemed to me like a good alternative.
also it gives opportunities to stop your dog from running into your mom.
both my Boxer (~40 kg) and my Mollossermix (~45 kg) were pretty rough when it comes to playing und running to people, which can be pretty dangerous with a big and fast dog...the leash helped a lot to train with them without getting someone hurt.
Sancho was around the age of your dog, when we got him and he knew nothing, so the one-on-one care was important to get him family compatible, since he was already pretty big and heavy.
The only time they weren't leashed on some person or on their blankets, was during controlled playtime with other dogs, training and at night (they're sleeping in our room). We did this, til we could be sure that they were able to behave normally inside the house and wouldn't jump on visiting children or my grand parents.

 

Just an idea to throw out there based on my own experience.. onder:

It didn't matter how much mental and physical exercise Shadow got and how tired he was - he would not for the life of him, stop going around! He would try to get you to play constantly!!! :eyeroll:

I implemented what Kikopup does in this video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wesm2OpE_2c - Capture calmness.

It also helped me to look at these and use these overall :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTSuPk2Ccjo - Building attention.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBvPaqMZyo8 - Positive interrupter noise.

Like I said - in my case, I had to teach Shadow that it was perfectly fine to calm down when he was in the house.
After only a day - I saw a huge difference in him! He seemed less frantic and less stressed and way more content.