I'm guessing the two are related, and the barking is her trying to get the people or other dogs to back off, would that be right? If so, if you work on her reactivity to people and dogs, the 'need' for her to bark should go and it will fix itself. If not, we might need to come up with other ideas. But I'd start with the reactivity.
She will have an invisible radius of space around him where he feels secure. It's called flight distance, anything within that space triggers his fight or flight stress response, which you may have heard of. Find out what that is and keep her far enough away from other dogs, people and things she reacts to so that she is aware of them, but relaxed. Your goal is to train that she doesn't need to react; not to stop a reaction in progress. I suspect that may be what's happening when you stand in front of her and tell her no; you are too late and too close. And 'no' means nothing to her as a sound.
Reward her for being calm with something fabulous, like frankfurter sausage or a very special toy. The aim of this is to change your dog’s emotional response to the stressful thing (the other dog) by repeatedly pairing it with something good. In time, your dog will learn that scary dogs and people mean sausages appear and this creates something called a positive conditioned emotional response (+CER).
This website explains it in more detail -
Care for Reactive Dogs
Gradually, over weeks and months rather than days, you can work on reducing the distance. This may mean you have to be selective where you walk - choose places with good visibility so you can give others a wide berth, or where you can turn and walk away easily. The fact she has been doing this for some give means that it will be harder to stop, don't expect this to be a quick fix.
But - be aware that if your dog has had a stressful episode the stress hormone cortisol can stay in the body for some time. Studies in dogs are inconclusive but it may be several days. That means that if her cortisol is already high, the distance she was comfortable with on one day might be too close on another day. So the safe distance can change, watch her body language.
Alongside that you could train a 'watch me'. As your dog looks at you, mark and reward the behaviour. Ask for longer periods of watching. Then if a dog approaches, after you have worked on the distance issue, you can get your dog to focus on you and not the other dog. BUT - some dogs find this scary as they cannot see the thing they are anxious about so you need to judge your dog. And importantly, don't ask your dog to watch you if it is the other dog that is reactive. Your dog should never be in a situation where he could be at risk while he is complying with something you have asked her to do.
Trainers describe behaviour like this with reference to the three Ds. Distance, as above but also be aware of Duration - your dog might be tolerant for 10 seconds, but not 15; and Distraction - how distracting the stimulus is, a calm dog might not trigger any reaction at a given distance but a bouncy one might. A small person might be less triggering than a big man with a hat - you get the idea.
In the house, keeping her away from people in another room is a good management strategy, the idea of someone being in her space adds more layers of tension. After you have worked on the above for a while you could use baby gates, so she is safely apart but able to see.
And if you are concerned about her biting, train her to wear a muzzle. Done properly, it will be just like another piece of kit like her collar or harness.