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I don't know that the method I used is standard since I just kind of winged it on my own but I used verbal cues with a lure in the beginning. I would lure the dog through my legs while taking an exaggerated slower step forward and say zig while luring the dog through. I stayed on this simple process and then added in the zag after she knew the zig. I tend to use more hand signals and body signals than verbal cues but for this training behavior I thought it best to stick with a verbal cue since I didn't want her weaving every time I walk with her. I somewhat believe that my dog keys on my length of stride because when we weave, I have to take larger than normal steps because she's a larger breed dog. So, between the verbal cue and my longer than normal stride, she has more than enough indication as to what she should do.

Don't know if this helps but it has worked for me.
I also "winged" it when I taught my dog leg weaving, and my approach was almost identical to yours. I agree that exaggerated slow steps provide a good reminder of what the dog should do when you're fading out the lure. I actually made a video tutorial showing how to teach leg weaves (as a school project) which I would love to post on here for others to critique, but it features my neighbor's dog so I'd have to get their permission first.
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The second time I taught leg weaves, I only introduced the verbal cue near the end, when I was starting to fade out the lure. The first time, I had used a verbal cue right from the start. Both dogs had little difficulty with me fading out the lure. They did learn the verbal cue, but they were more attuned to physical cues (walking in a specific way, taking big, slow steps).
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I teach by lure so that at first I have treat in my lure hand. But after a few tries I only pretend to pick the treat and just touch it so my fingers are scented with the treat. I use it as a lure and as soon as the dog performs the behavior under the fake lure (or without it) I give the treat from my other hand. Then I stop scenting my fingers and only pretend to pick the treat. Then I drop the fake treat pick. Later I can transform my lure into a hand signal.

I taught leg weaves by standig legs slightly apart. Here I can use weight shifts to aid hand luring - and this is useful when I drop the lure completely. I can still hint the dog with weight shifts and prepare her for the walking part. So I am standing there and say, the dog is on my left. She is an experienced lured dog so she knows to be aware where my hands are. I pinch my fingers to signal a lure and bring my right hand behind my right thigh. Here I can lean a bit to the right too. The dog sees the lure ans starts to walk towards it.
I can give the dog the treat now. Or I can lure her between my legs and feed her there. I usually reward the dog so that she is almost wrapped around my leg so I think I am teaching her to prepare for the next step. At some point I have to randomize the treat so the dog does not start to lag when she hits the spot she was reinforced last time. I fade the lure as described in the first paragraph. And then I start asking for more steps.
When the dog knows how to make figure 8's around my legs I start walking.
 

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Also, kyra sundanc has the do more with your dog certificates for trick training. There are fb groups that are free (called spark teams) that will teach you the tricks you need to know to pass each level. I think it's about $25 per certificate. Or you can just learn the tricks ! Hunter knows about 45 behaviors :)
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