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Tonight I think my dog was about to bite again

740 Views 30 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  BigBlackDog
My dog has a two-bite-attempt history. Once toward a child, and he connected -- bruised the kid's arm, but no blood.

It was sudden too, my dog had just been playing with the child and seemed to enjoy it. I don't recall any warning signs.

Recently he tried to bite an adult. But I warned the adult and he wanted to hang out with my dog anyway, so I let them -- and the adult stayed alert. My dog was hesitant at first, but warmed to him quickly and jumped on him, got a lot of rubs, etc. Then a few minutes later the adult saw my dog was about to bite, and he pulled his hand back in time so that my dog didn't actually connect. I immediately tackled my dog pretty hard and scolded him. No spanking, just verbal.

I do not believe that in either case my dog's goal was to injure, I believe they were warning bites.

With the child however, right after the bite my took an aggressive posture and barked very aggressively. I believe that if the child had reacted in an inappopriate way, my dog would have proceeded to then bite to injure. And my dog is a 95lb german shepherd, so he could easily kill the child.

I had decided that my dog would not get to be around strangers without a muzzle, and that was fine. I only needed him to accept my girlfriend--whenever I meet her.

Months ago my dog seemed to have accepted my brother, so I thought: if he can accept my brother, then he can accept a girlfriend too. They just have to bond slowly.

But tonight my dog's behavior changed abruptly again. Despite the fact that he had just been playing with my brother, and getting treats from him, and jumping on him to show love, my brother was petting him and my dog's ears pinned back. He also stared at my brother in a way that I've seen before when it was pretty clear he was about to bite. My brother noticed it do and backed off, so my dog didn't actually attempt to bite. But someone else who is more oblivious to canine body language would have stayed too close and gotten bit.

So if I can't even trust him with my brother who he seemed so clearly to have accepted, it seems that the risk is just too great. When I find a partner, how will I know that my dog has really accepted her and won't bite her?

Even if I went to a professional trainer, that only reduces the likelihood. But with a three-bite-or-near-bite history now, I don't think there's any training or other actions I can take to be able to trust him with other people in the way that I need to.

That said, I'm open to suggestions, but it sure does seem to me that I should probably take this as the last straw and let him go. What can you tell me?

For what it's worth, I really got attached to him. He's loyal, obedient, and I believe he would die to protect me. That last part meant so much to me--to know he cared enough to do that... I'm the leader, I'm here to protect him rather than the other way around, but still it's a special kind of love.
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You mentioned a muzzle. Can you keep one on him whenever he is either out of your home, or when other people are there?

Used properly, it just becomes another piece of kit like a collar or harness.
You mentioned a muzzle. Can you keep one on him whenever he is either out of your home, or when other people are there?

Used properly, it just becomes another piece of kit like a collar or harness.
That had been my plan, but I need to be able at some point to trust him with whoever (girlfriend) moves in with me. Considering what he did with my brother tonight, I'm doubting it's possible to ever achieve that and I'm afraid to try-and-see. It seems it could easily lead to someone getting killed. And I can't force him to wear a muzzle 24/7, that would be cruel. Thoughts?
I'm still thinking muzzle, maybe combined with containment (like if your girlfriend had to get up in the night to use the bathroom).

Like I said, if you introduce it properly he won't find it cruel.

I wouldn't leave it on him unsupervised though, so that's where containment comes in. Is he crate trained?
I know this isn't a new problem, so I'm sure this has been said before but have you ruled out medical issues?
I know this isn't a new problem, so I'm sure this has been said before but have you ruled out medical issues?
I'd imagine the only candidates are mental issues. He's anxious, and when he was a puppy he had very extended episodes of hallucinating.
He could be in pain or discomfort.
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My dog has a two-bite-attempt history. Once toward a child, and he connected -- bruised the kid's arm, but no blood.

It was sudden too, my dog had just been playing with the child and seemed to enjoy it. I don't recall any warning signs.

Recently he tried to bite an adult. But I warned the adult and he wanted to hang out with my dog anyway, so I let them -- and the adult stayed alert. My dog was hesitant at first, but warmed to him quickly and jumped on him, got a lot of rubs, etc. Then a few minutes later the adult saw my dog was about to bite, and he pulled his hand back in time so that my dog didn't actually connect. I immediately tackled my dog pretty hard and scolded him. No spanking, just verbal.

I do not believe that in either case my dog's goal was to injure, I believe they were warning bites.

With the child however, right after the bite my took an aggressive posture and barked very aggressively. I believe that if the child had reacted in an inappopriate way, my dog would have proceeded to then bite to injure. And my dog is a 95lb german shepherd, so he could easily kill the child.

I had decided that my dog would not get to be around strangers without a muzzle, and that was fine. I only needed him to accept my girlfriend--whenever I meet her.

Months ago my dog seemed to have accepted my brother, so I thought: if he can accept my brother, then he can accept a girlfriend too. They just have to bond slowly.

But tonight my dog's behavior changed abruptly again. Despite the fact that he had just been playing with my brother, and getting treats from him, and jumping on him to show love, my brother was petting him and my dog's ears pinned back. He also stared at my brother in a way that I've seen before when it was pretty clear he was about to bite. My brother noticed it do and backed off, so my dog didn't actually attempt to bite. But someone else who is more oblivious to canine body language would have stayed too close and gotten bit.

So if I can't even trust him with my brother who he seemed so clearly to have accepted, it seems that the risk is just too great. When I find a partner, how will I know that my dog has really accepted her and won't bite her?

Even if I went to a professional trainer, that only reduces the likelihood. But with a three-bite-or-near-bite history now, I don't think there's any training or other actions I can take to be able to trust him with other people in the way that I need to.

That said, I'm open to suggestions, but it sure does seem to me that I should probably take this as the last straw and let him go. What can you tell me?

For what it's worth, I really got attached to him. He's loyal, obedient, and I believe he would die to protect me. That last part meant so much to me--to know he cared enough to do that... I'm the leader, I'm here to protect him rather than the other way around, but still it's a special kind of love.
Remind me: how long have you had this dog?
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Remind me: how long have you had this dog?
Around one year.
I can't really offer much more than sympathy. I'm in a similar situation with my dog - whether from genetics or a bad start to life, she is very nervous with strangers and treats them as hazards to be driven off. Likewise, as a 75lb GSD/Rottie/Dobermann mix, putting her in a situation where she might bite someone is something I've been very cautious to avoid (though not without nerve-wracking moments, in spite of those efforts).

It's definitely a challenge to have a dog like that meet new people. Mine takes a minimum of three weeks just for a basic introduction, and I'm still only mostly sure at that point that she won't lunge at them if they look her in the eye accidentally. That entire time is muzzled and on leash, whenever they might be near the newcomer. Even after that, people are warned to keep her at arm's length no matter how friendly she seems - because she, like yours, can be happily playing one minute and threatening the next if the person does something she thinks is worrisome. In her case, she's got a very bad habit of putting herself between a person's knees, and then panicking because she feels trapped.

So the best I can suggest is to go slow. Even if your dog seems friendly, contact should be kept to a minimum - no wrestling, no jumping up, petting in short intervals (and only if the dog keeps asking for it). Contactless, non-competitive games like fetch can also go a long way toward having a potentially reactive dog see a person as fun and non-threatening. Good luck!
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I can't really offer much more than sympathy. I'm in a similar situation with my dog - whether from genetics or a bad start to life, she is very nervous with strangers and treats them as hazards to be driven off. Likewise, as a 75lb GSD/Rottie/Dobermann mix, putting her in a situation where she might bite someone is something I've been very cautious to avoid (though not without nerve-wracking moments, in spite of those efforts).

It's definitely a challenge to have a dog like that meet new people. Mine takes a minimum of three weeks just for a basic introduction, and I'm still only mostly sure at that point that she won't lunge at them if they look her in the eye accidentally. That entire time is muzzled and on leash, whenever they might be near the newcomer. Even after that, people are warned to keep her at arm's length no matter how friendly she seems - because she, like yours, can be happily playing one minute and threatening the next if the person does something she thinks is worrisome. In her case, she's got a very bad habit of putting herself between a person's knees, and then panicking because she feels trapped.

So the best I can suggest is to go slow. Even if your dog seems friendly, contact should be kept to a minimum - no wrestling, no jumping up, petting in short intervals (and only if the dog keeps asking for it). Contactless, non-competitive games like fetch can also go a long way toward having a potentially reactive dog see a person as fun and non-threatening. Good luck!
Similar to mine, but yours is quite a bit more aggressive.

All I need from my dog is for him to accept one new person.

I called the human society today to ask what would be done with my dog if I surrendered him, and they mentioned their trainer working with him -- despite his bite history. So if they think he might be salvageable, maybe he is. I left a voicemail for the trainer. I'd much rather work with my dog than get rid of him, if there's much hope :).

Good luck with your friend!
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Similar to mine, but yours is quite a bit more aggressive.

All I need from my dog is for him to accept one new person.

I called the human society today to ask what would be done with my dog if I surrendered him, and they mentioned their trainer working with him -- despite his bite history. So if they think he might be salvageable, maybe he is. I left a voicemail for the trainer. I'd much rather work with my dog than get rid of him, if there's much hope :).

Good luck with your friend!
Mine's actually a sweetie and a pushover once she gets to know a person well. Makes the challenge of having her meet new people worthwhile, even if she makes a TERRIBLE first impression, and second impression, and third impression...

If you have the chance to work with a trainer, I'd take it. People who work with dogs (particularly rescues, because it's not uncommon that dogs are given up for behavioural reasons) can often see things that you'd otherwise miss, and they should be able to suggest techniques that'll work for your dog.
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Perhaps, if you haven't, take some time to gain a solid understanding of dog body language - how dogs speak to each other and to us. It is extremely rare that a dog will snap or bite without (warning) signs that it is uncomfortable, anxious or stressed with the situation it is in, what is going on before it escalates to physically asking (begging) for space.
These signals often subtle, fleeting, and easy to miss, (or dismiss) but are vital in communicating with others, used with the intention of avoiding conflict.

Guide to Stress Signals in Dogs - Whole Dog Journal (whole-dog-journal.com)

May I suggest the book? well worth the read.
'On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals' by Turid Rugaas
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I immediately tackled my dog pretty hard and scolded him. No spanking, just verbal.
Keep in mind that punishing a dog (regardless of how it is applied) for giving warning, (making a request for space, to be left alone, which is what he was doing) may temporarily suppress the behavior but does not address the reason for the behavior in the first place. Punishment also runs a high risk of teaching the dog not to give warning at all, to suppress those warning signals, lest he be punished for displaying them, the last thing you want is a dog who no longer communicates how they are feeling about the situation they are in.

Our dogs do speak -- we owe it to them to listen.
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Keep in mind that punishing a dog (regardless of how it is applied) for giving warning, (making a request for space, to be left alone, which is what he was doing) may temporarily suppress the behavior but does not address the reason for the behavior in the first place. Punishment also runs a high risk of teaching the dog not to give warning at all, to suppress those warning signals, lest he be punished for displaying them, the last thing you want is a dog who no longer communicates how they are feeling about the situation they are in.

Our dogs do speak -- we owe it to them to listen.
Yes, this. Dogs are fast and have good aim. Trust me, if your dog wanted to draw blood, he would have done so. The snap was a warning that he was on his last nerve. Better to heed the warning than to punish him for giving it.

I think a better tactic in the future would be to calmly separate the dog from the person who is annoying the dog. The best way to do this depends a bit on the situation. The easiest way is simply to have a dog bed in another room. Send the dog (calmly, not with anger in your voice) to his bed and shut the door. However, you haven't mentioned whether this dog has resource guarding or protection issues. Having a stranger in the house but out of sight can really amp up some dogs. If that's what's going on you really should be working with a behaviorist.
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I have news that might be really good. I spoke to the trainer at the local humane society. Note: Until yesterday I didn't even know they had one.

She told me that when a dog changes so abruptly and quickly like mine does, with no outward trigger, the problem is medical rather than behavioral.

And his past fly catching syndrome was a major clue. She said to see a vet, try meds, and there's a 50/50 chance that it fixes him. But if it doesn't he will indeed have to be put down, because he could even bite me if he has a bad enough seizure.
Keep in mind that punishing a dog (regardless of how it is applied) for giving warning, (making a request for space, to be left alone, which is what he was doing) may temporarily suppress the behavior but does not address the reason for the behavior in the first place. Punishment also runs a high risk of teaching the dog not to give warning at all, to suppress those warning signals, lest he be punished for displaying them, the last thing you want is a dog who no longer communicates how they are feeling about the situation they are in.

Our dogs do speak -- we owe it to them to listen.
I want my dog to growl, bark, etc., and I allow him to do those things.

I punished him for trying to bite.
I want my dog to growl, bark, etc., and I allow him to do those things.

I punished him for trying to bite.
Can't you see that's just the same thing?
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Good job with the behaviorist consult. The fly catching definitely puts an extra wrinkle on things.

I think in light of this additional information it's probably even more important to manage him so that he is never put into a situation where he can bite. It's neither useful nor kind to punish him for snapping at someone while he's having a seizure or a hallucination. He's probably getting all kinds of weird sensations. He's probably not capable of reasoning correctly or learning.
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Can't you see that's just the same thing?
I had removed my post by replacing it with three periods. I don't understand why someone else restored it, and now my statement is being challenged.

The fact that I removed my message should be an indicator that maybe I realized my statement was wrong.
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