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Bella has done this a few weeks now she is 4 months old if she hears someone come in she doesnt know or has only seen a couple times she barks and growls and will not let them near her. She hasn't started snapping yet except for when an 8 year old tried to pick her up when she wasn't growling. She will continue to growl and bark until they leave the room while running and hiding I have been socializing her since the day I got her. At the vet she only growled at one person but she growls at everyone who comes into the house she doesn't see much. I want to try and correct this before it turns into aggression, I have tried having her relax around new people to show her they arent bad and they even try giving her treats but she won't take anything from them I asked about her siblings and they said that they aren't like this so im not sure why Bella is.
 

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How have you been socializing her?

She needs to spend some time where she can see or hear these strange new people, but won't be forced to interact with them at all. So get someone to come over and sit on the couch, then park yourself as far away as you possibly can and every time she looks at that person, she gets a really yummy treat. And repeat. And repeat.

Don't force the issue. Once she seems to be 100% okay with being far away, you can move half a step closer and keep playing the game.

You can also do little exercises like sit by the front door (inside), have someone come and knock, and then have them walk away. The second Bella notices the person, you start feeding treats like crazy until the person actually leaves.

If you google "how to socialize a fearful puppy" there will be a wealth of additional information out there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
walking her around neighborhood, petsmart trips and stuff like that, She was fine for first month then the growling and barking started.
 

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Have you considered hiring a trainer or joining a training class? Sounds like this, paired with a few other the other issues you asked about may be 'above this site's pay grade' so to say. You might need to have someone who is knowledgeable that can sit with you and Bella and see what she is doing and help you work through the issues.
 

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I don't have the money for a professional trainer at the moment. I only have 30$ in my bank account and I won't get any more for a couple weeks
 

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She could be going through a fear period. That's not an excuse not to work on the behavior, but it could be a potential explanation.

Did you do anything specific on your walks or trips to Petsmart? Simply placing her in that environment won't be terribly beneficial, and if she's fearful to begin with it could be flooding her as well. You need to use treats and games in situations where she is fairly comfortable to make those situations/people/triggers fun and relaxing for her.

Have you done any google searches pertaining to socializing a fearful puppy? Do you have any specific questions about the methods? What intrigues you, what do you think would be fun/easy/beneficial to do with her?

I think part of the reason that it is difficult to answer your questions is that you are a bit vague on what you've tried with her, what you've researched, and what you're willing to try.
 

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It sounds like you tried really hard to socialize her, but it wasn't done 100% correctly, which is actually super common.
I'm a huge, huge, fan of Karen Pryor, I would look into clicker training, and this in particular is a good read:

Don't Socialize the Dog
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I have looked up how to socialize a fearful puppy haven't started trying anything yet though. Gonna get some treats to get new people to give her whenever she comes in. Im willing to do just about anything other then professional trainer since I don't have the money for that right now
 

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I really think you would benefit from professional help and think you should save for it. That said...

First things first...
No more food directly from strangers' hands for the time being. It puts a lot of pressure on a fearful pup... people get close, make eye contact, bend over, and other things that likely make her uncomfortable right now. Putting her in the situation is at best pointless as she is refusing the food or at worse going to make her more fearful as each encounter with people is uncomfortable.
Also for the future... those treats from hand can lure a dog in close before they are comfy! Then once food is gone they get frightened and react. Not good and something you want to avoid.

I always tell my clients that we need to work on proximity before interaction. If a dog is not comfortable with the trigger nearby, they certainly are not going to be comfortable with interaction.

So if I were in your shoes (and I have been with a couple of my dogs) easiest exercise to start with is the open bar/closed bar game (it's in the reactivity sticky thread). Practice and perfect this exercise. You'll want to be able to play this stationary as well as on the move. Be incredibly generous with your rewards and always use high value rewards. Make sure your timing is spot on. Bar opens as soon as your dog is aware of the trigger. Bar closes when the trigger goes away. All food comes from you. What you want to achieve is an automatic head turn to you with a happy, expectant expression as soon as a person appears.

To start with you'll want to set up training sessions. Explain to a helper what you are working on and just have them pop in and put of sight. Start with them at a distance. Give little breaks and keep the sessions short.

Then for practice in the real world, (I often have clients go ''people watch'' with their reactive dogs) you will want to choose an open area with plenty of escape routes, and just relax in a calm area quite a ways away. Then just play open bar/closed bar. Person appears so bar opens. Person disappears so bar closes. Between people, your dog can just be a dog (sniff, explore a bit around you on lead, lay down, etc.)

Gas stations are great spots once a dog has some training under his or her belt. You can just sit in your car or hop out and stand in a grassy area to the side. Just lots of people coming and going, normally minding their own business. Provides a lot of repetitions in a short a mount of time. Plus a good amount of variability.

Once Bella is comfy with people nearby, then you'll be able to get pointers and exercises for getting her comfy with interaction.

Oh! You'll also want to set up management plans so that Bella isn't put into scary situations she can't handle and you aren't prepared for. So for example, if guests come over then just put her away when you are unable to work with her. Also guests shouldn't just be walking in unannounced. Nor should you allow them to try to pet her.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thing with that is she doesn't growl or bark out in public only to one vet tech who tried to talk to her. other times shes good She only growls at people here when they come into my room or they try to touch her.
 

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Hi, not to hijack this thread but I am having a similar problem. My GSD puppy is 20 weeks old, has taken puppy class and been socialized with people and other dogs. He just recently started barking at strangers/ strange dogs. He doesn't growl though.

When socializing, should I "people watch" and allow him to bark? He doesn't stop barking unless we are like 15 feet away from the thing of interest.
 

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Hi, not to hijack this thread but I am having a similar problem. My GSD puppy is 20 weeks old, has taken puppy class and been socialized with people and other dogs. He just recently started barking at strangers/ strange dogs. He doesn't growl though.

When socializing, should I "people watch" and allow him to bark? He doesn't stop barking unless we are like 15 feet away from the thing of interest.
If he doesn't bark at 15 ft, that would likely be his threshold and you need to start your people watching at that point - only be in areas where you can have that kind of distance between you and strange people/dogs. Once he gets better at that distance, move up half a foot and start from there.

Essentially, you want to be close enough that he notices the trigger, but far enough away that he's not reacting to it.
 
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