Joined
·
10,779 Posts
I'm going to echo Red, Dale should get some counseling for his anger management, impulse control issues. I do get venting, I used to be really bad about doing so, but owning a noise sensitive dog in the past, and now having another one I've learned to regulate my voice and actions so I know it can be done.
YOU cannot help Dale unless he wants to be helped. The questions you need to ask yourself is does he want help and is he willing to change. If he doesn't then the questions you need to ask is, is the situation getting worse or staying the same, and just how much you are willing to live with and subject Henry to.
No you are not babying your dog to much.
Garbage:
Trash raiding, litter box raiding, counter surfing, etc are all highly self rewarding for the dog, that means that the dog is rewarded every time they preform the behavior. Because it's such a self rewarding behavior it's nearly impossible to teach most dogs to not do the behavior and it's much easier to simply manage the situation so that the dog gets no reward for performing the behavior. That means the you keep the litterbox either out of reach of the dog or as clean as possible, you keep the garbage where the dog cannot get to it, you keep counters cleared of all food. Henry never learned to not get in the trash or raid the litter box, he learned that it was unsafe to do so while you are around, but safe to do so when you aren't. The behavior you see him do, rolling over, groaning, guilty look is appeasement gestures, in dog language they mean I'm harmless please don't hurt me please don't be mad at me. What they do not mean is he feels guilty for his behavior. Spanking him, punishing him while he's garbage raiding or even worse after he has, doesn't teach him anything but to not get in the trash while you are there, so basically you are spanking him for nothing. Keep the trash out of reach.
Walking:
Unless you are working on heeling, or have a very specific purpose there is really no reason for him not to walk ahead of you. Personally I prefer it since if my dog is in front of me I can see what he's getting into. If you want him at your side reinforce him being there by randomly offering him treats and praising him when he's where you want him to be. Basically make walking at your side the best thing ever.
6-16 yr olds:
It sounds like he might have a bit of barrier frustration going on, or he might just be afraid of people in that age group. Check out this sticky http://www.dogforum.com/training-be...y-leash-aggression-barrier-frustration-12538/
Permission:
Do you like every person you meet and want to go up and greet them? I'm guessing no. Your dog doesn't like everyone either, and I wouldn't make him go greet someone he doesn't want to greet. You can tell the person something like, "Oh, hes feeling shy today. Sometimes he gets like that." and just let him hang back.
Shaking:
Get him checked out by a vet.
Barking:
Check out that reactivity sticky I linked to.
Training: Commands:
I'm not sure what treats you have tried, but something like Zuke's Minis might work for him, it has limited ingredients in it. You can also try home made treats like boiled chicken, cooked lean beef, and you can mix some of the treats with his daily kibble ration and stash it in the refrigerator overnight so that the kibble picks up the scent of the treats. I know you said that you are having a problem with training and treats, and with him not always listening. What you need to remember is that training is usually the dogs job so it's no big deal to "pay" them, but you don't have to "pay" them every time they do something, and their "pay" doesn't always have to be treats. Once they know the command you can randomly pay them. Pay them a few times in a row, then skip a time or two. I also will randomly ask my dog to do a known command when we are playing. He does the command and we get back to playing. You should be proofing the commands. By that I mean that you need to practice them everywhere and with ever increasing distractions. Each time you move to a new location go back to basics and heavily reward the dog for doing the command before tapering off the reward. Check out this sticky http://www.dogforum.com/training-behavior-stickies/thoughts-training-food-1219/ Please remember dogs don't generalize, they may not realize that sit in the house also means sit outside.
Discipline:
With such a soft dog I recommend that you don't discipline him like you've been doing. Hard dogs blow off discipline, soft dogs tend to shut down, or become even more nervous and fearful. Another thing about the type of discipline you are using is that dogs learn to ignore it, they become desensitized to it so ever increasing force must be used to get the desired result. You can also end up causing what's known as fallout, unintended consequences of the discipline http://www.dogforum.com/training-behavior-stickies/suppression-modification-shutdown-fallout-4776/ What you should be doing is preventing unwanted behavior like the garbage can raiding, and rewarding good behavior. For some things you can teach a different behavior that the dog can use to get what he wants, so if a dog jumps on people for attention teach him that jumping gets him ignored (ignore him when he jumps) and that having all 4 on the floor gets him lots of attention (only give him attention when he is not jumping). If he's not obeying commands you need to work on the command not discipline the dog. Check out the sticky I linked about training with treats!
YOU cannot help Dale unless he wants to be helped. The questions you need to ask yourself is does he want help and is he willing to change. If he doesn't then the questions you need to ask is, is the situation getting worse or staying the same, and just how much you are willing to live with and subject Henry to.
No you are not babying your dog to much.
Garbage:
Trash raiding, litter box raiding, counter surfing, etc are all highly self rewarding for the dog, that means that the dog is rewarded every time they preform the behavior. Because it's such a self rewarding behavior it's nearly impossible to teach most dogs to not do the behavior and it's much easier to simply manage the situation so that the dog gets no reward for performing the behavior. That means the you keep the litterbox either out of reach of the dog or as clean as possible, you keep the garbage where the dog cannot get to it, you keep counters cleared of all food. Henry never learned to not get in the trash or raid the litter box, he learned that it was unsafe to do so while you are around, but safe to do so when you aren't. The behavior you see him do, rolling over, groaning, guilty look is appeasement gestures, in dog language they mean I'm harmless please don't hurt me please don't be mad at me. What they do not mean is he feels guilty for his behavior. Spanking him, punishing him while he's garbage raiding or even worse after he has, doesn't teach him anything but to not get in the trash while you are there, so basically you are spanking him for nothing. Keep the trash out of reach.
Walking:
Unless you are working on heeling, or have a very specific purpose there is really no reason for him not to walk ahead of you. Personally I prefer it since if my dog is in front of me I can see what he's getting into. If you want him at your side reinforce him being there by randomly offering him treats and praising him when he's where you want him to be. Basically make walking at your side the best thing ever.
6-16 yr olds:
It sounds like he might have a bit of barrier frustration going on, or he might just be afraid of people in that age group. Check out this sticky http://www.dogforum.com/training-be...y-leash-aggression-barrier-frustration-12538/
Permission:
Do you like every person you meet and want to go up and greet them? I'm guessing no. Your dog doesn't like everyone either, and I wouldn't make him go greet someone he doesn't want to greet. You can tell the person something like, "Oh, hes feeling shy today. Sometimes he gets like that." and just let him hang back.
Shaking:
Get him checked out by a vet.
Barking:
Check out that reactivity sticky I linked to.
Training: Commands:
I'm not sure what treats you have tried, but something like Zuke's Minis might work for him, it has limited ingredients in it. You can also try home made treats like boiled chicken, cooked lean beef, and you can mix some of the treats with his daily kibble ration and stash it in the refrigerator overnight so that the kibble picks up the scent of the treats. I know you said that you are having a problem with training and treats, and with him not always listening. What you need to remember is that training is usually the dogs job so it's no big deal to "pay" them, but you don't have to "pay" them every time they do something, and their "pay" doesn't always have to be treats. Once they know the command you can randomly pay them. Pay them a few times in a row, then skip a time or two. I also will randomly ask my dog to do a known command when we are playing. He does the command and we get back to playing. You should be proofing the commands. By that I mean that you need to practice them everywhere and with ever increasing distractions. Each time you move to a new location go back to basics and heavily reward the dog for doing the command before tapering off the reward. Check out this sticky http://www.dogforum.com/training-behavior-stickies/thoughts-training-food-1219/ Please remember dogs don't generalize, they may not realize that sit in the house also means sit outside.
Discipline:
With such a soft dog I recommend that you don't discipline him like you've been doing. Hard dogs blow off discipline, soft dogs tend to shut down, or become even more nervous and fearful. Another thing about the type of discipline you are using is that dogs learn to ignore it, they become desensitized to it so ever increasing force must be used to get the desired result. You can also end up causing what's known as fallout, unintended consequences of the discipline http://www.dogforum.com/training-behavior-stickies/suppression-modification-shutdown-fallout-4776/ What you should be doing is preventing unwanted behavior like the garbage can raiding, and rewarding good behavior. For some things you can teach a different behavior that the dog can use to get what he wants, so if a dog jumps on people for attention teach him that jumping gets him ignored (ignore him when he jumps) and that having all 4 on the floor gets him lots of attention (only give him attention when he is not jumping). If he's not obeying commands you need to work on the command not discipline the dog. Check out the sticky I linked about training with treats!