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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently we have three dogs-two bigger girls and one little boy. The boy-Toby-came via a rescue who was released by a breeder. The rescue said he was in horrible shape when they got him. No fur, crusty infected paws. This is in Missouri, the state with the most puppy mills compared to others. I’m reaching out because we have some trust issues with other family members. I feel bad correcting him when he growls at my daughter and he isn’t very fond of my husband. Any suggestions?
 

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Welcome aboard! Unfortunately, without much more detail it would be impossible to even guess what's going on with Toby.

That said, whatever is causing him to growl won't be helped or alleviated with a correction or any kind of coercion. But answer a few questions and people might be able to give you some useful suggestions.

How old is he and how long has he been with you?

What are the sizes/breeds of your other 2 dogs?

What is a "typical" scenario in which Toby might growl at someone or at another dog?

How much exercise do the dogs get daily? And how much training have they all had?
 

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I agree with @BigBlackDog , more detail will help (like the age of your daughter too); and correcting him for growling most certainly won't. Think of that like taking the battery out of a smoke alarm. The noise stops but you haven't put out the fire. Growling is a really important communication, it means he is uncomfortable and he wants them to back off. It they don't he may decide he needs to be clearer in telling them he doesn't want them close, and that might mean he has to escalate it to a bite.

Please don't make him do that. Because that would be much more serious for them and for him. Don't put him in that position.

For now, until we know more, your daughter and your husband need to stay away from him.
 

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I’ve had Toby for two months and he was fine until one week ago, that’s when this began. He gets along very well with the other two dogs, no growls or snapping. One is a Pitt/boxer mix and the other a shepherd/boxer mix. He’s very much a momma’s boy, following me everywhere. He’s nine years old. My daughter is an adult and loves dogs but I’m mostly concerned with my three young grandkids. They do know to not be near him but I hate thinking that I have a dog that wants to bite people. Forgot to mention he’s a shitzu
 

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I’ve had Toby for two months and he was fine until one week ago, that’s when this began. He gets along very well with the other two dogs, no growls or snapping. One is a Pitt/boxer mix and the other a shepherd/boxer mix. He’s very much a momma’s boy, following me everywhere. He’s nine years old. My daughter is an adult and loves dogs but I’m mostly concerned with my three young grandkids. They do know to not be near him but I hate thinking that I have a dog that wants to bite people. Forgot to mention he’s a shitzu
 

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It could be that after a couple of months of settling in, he has found the courage to tell people he doesn't want them close - hence, the growl.

I also agree with a vet check.

What would typically lead up to him growling? The more detail, the better.
 

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They do know to not be near him but I hate thinking that I have a dog that wants to bite people. Forgot to mention he’s a shitzu
It is very, very rare to have a dog who 'wants' to bite anyone, if he 'wanted' to, he would have done it by now. He is giving very clear warning signals (growling) that are requests for space, requests that are saying that (at this point in time) he doesn't feel safe.
He has lived his whole live under what one can surmise were less than acceptable living conditions, (given the condition he was in when the rescue took him in) likely with little to no experience with an appropriate socialization in the real world, it is going to take him some time (perhaps many months) to adjust and adapt to his new life and to 'believe' that he is safe and can trust those with whom he is sharing his life with.
If you are concerned about the safety of your grandkids, understandably so, perhaps consider confining him to a safe place while they are visiting. That safe place can be in another room where is comfortable and he can chill out with a stuffed Kong or a chew toy or in an x-pen in the room where you are gathering so he can see what is going on (and you can reward him for simple things - such as just quietly watching) but without the risk of something happening with the grand kids.
 

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Toby had his visit to the vet about one month ago. Drew blood, looked at his poop and he was declared to be in good condition. I had to change his diet due to runny poop but that’s all fine now. Of course he’s not potty trained but uses the pee pads pretty consistently. He has always disliked men but last night he snapped at my husband. Funny thing, Toby sleeps with us, sometimes on my head and is fine with my husband then.
 

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One of my rescues was afraid of people in general, men more so than women, but he would sleep with us on our bed at night, and approach if one of us happened to be laying on the couch and didn't look directly at him - can only assume that that body position felt 'safest' (non-threatening) to him - but if we were sitting or standing he kept his distance. It got better over time, when he looked at us we would drop a couple of treats on the floor and walk away, we let him set the pace and decide if and when he was ready for more interactions with us.
 

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The snap is an escalation of his 'back off' signals. As @CachetheBC says, please be aware of your body language (the whole family, not you specifically).

Dogs give a series of signals that they are unhappy, but unfortunately most people don't recognise them because they can be quite subtle. To begin with there is often wide eyes, lip licking and yawning. There is also muscular tension in the body. Then the ones we sometimes do see - growl, snarl, nip then bite. If the early signals are not seen (or, in the dog's view, ignored) he won't bother with them because us stupid humans pay no attention anyway; so he may go straight to the bite. That's why it's important never to ignore the early signals or reprimand the dog for giving them.

Please tell your husband not to try to interact with him - I know its hard, but your dog is giving clear messages that he is afraid and doesn't want him close. I'd also encourage you not to sleep with Toby. If your husband moved and startled him, it could result in a bite and you having to make a tough choice.

There's a method you can use to get Toby more comfortable with your husband.

For the next two, three, four weeks or so (depending on how things progress), I'd suggest your husband ignores him. Absolutely. Completely. Not even eye contact, because as already mentioned , direct eye contact is very intimidating. Also, he should position himself so he is never between your dog and his safe place (bed etc) or escape route (door from the room).

Then, once he can be in the same room with your dog being relaxed, he can try taking some lovely treats and tossing them past the dog, so he has to go away from him to get them. I realise that sounds counterintuitive but it helps the dog build a positive conditioned emotional response (google +CER for the science if you are interested) without having to get too close, which could make him feel quite conflicted - he wants the treat but has to approach a scary person to get it.

After a number of days of doing that, your husband can put one of the treats on the floor, about 18 inches from his feet. See what your dog does. If he darts in, takes the treat, and goes off, then he isn't ready yet for this stage. So, as with anything in dog training, go back to the previous step for a bit longer.

When he takes the treat from the floor and eats it there, your husband can continue to do that for a few days. Still no eye contact.

Once he has been taking the treat from the floor happily for a number of days, your husband can offer one from his hand, but again see how the dog reacts. Any lack if confidence (taking it and stepping back) again is a sign he isn't ready, so back up a step for longer. And still no eye contact.

Once he is comfortable taking treats from your husband's hand (and I mean really comfortable) he can try petting him, but using the five second rule.

Stroke him for five seconds (some dogs prefer you avoid the head) then stop. Only if the dog initiates further contact by nudging your son or similar, he can continue for another five seconds then stop again. He should continue only for as long as the dog keeps asking. That gives the dog control and in turn that will build his confidence around your husband because he knows he can make it stop at any time.

Expect this to take weeks, or even months depending on the dog. But don't be tempted to rush it, take it at the dog's pace.
 
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