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So just in the last week or so Jessie has stopped listening to me when im training her, vet has checked her ears bit stinky but look clean and no infection.

So i need help please and i will upload video for you all to look at so you can see what happens

basically when i tell her to sit or down she does right away but she just stares at me this is a reason we failed CGC its like ignoring me, i just need to get her to listen again and do as told. She is 3 11.11.15

we will re sit it next month(end of month) but how do you get your dog who used to always listen to you and do as asked right away to listen and do it again like that? i am intensly training her. Tried clicker get sit click throw treat and repeat and same for down to no success. Tried luring her down sometimes wil do it but often not. same for sit. just lost and i actually sat down and cried overwhelmed and upset at the assesor cutting us out so early on. i am not dissapointed in Jessie because she did so well!
 

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Thanks for uploading a video! That helped a lot :) she's a cutie by the way.

When you began the training session there was a couple problems off the bat. First, you used a really high pitched voice and ran with her, which is a good way to distract a dog and get them too excited to focus on training. There's a ton of smells outside, as well as sights and sounds that are extremely stimulating for a dogs sensitive senses.

Running with the dog gives the aura of the session more of a play vibe, as well as the high pitched fun calling of the dog.

I would suggest doing training sessions inside and introducing her to it in a calm and focused environment / tone. She looks distracted in the video, and even though she's looking at you, I can see in her eyes that she's not in a place in her mind where she is translating your words into an action she needs to perform.

For example, the word "Pojke" means boy in Swedish. The word "flicka" means girl, and "kvinna" means woman. If I just started a conversation asking you where the woman, the girl, and the boy were in Swedish, even if you had learned those words, it might take you a second to translate them, and if you weren't paying attention, you may not catch and process that in your mind. If that makes sense? That might be a horrible analogy haha I tried!

Secondly, your command "down" was a little drawn out and saying a command over and over is a good way to get a dog to tune you out. Sometimes Cosmo doesn't sit when I ask because he's looking around at the cars and people passing, but I never repeat the command. I touch him, get his full attention, make him look at me, and say "sit" and THEN he is like "oh, ok sure!" And sits.

Try only saying it once when the dog actually has your attention, and make it quick and sharp. "Down!" As opposed to "dooooown" could also make a difference.

Hope this helped!
 

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She seems a little distracted, perhaps she needs help to focuse more.
You also talk a lot with your dog during the training session, as it seems to me.
perhaps it is better to work quieter or even completely without sound and with handsigns.
I love chatting randomly with my dog :D, but usually when we train I try to only use the commando words and nothing else, otherwise it seemed to me, like he had difficulties to distinguish the commando from "random chatting".

high value treats can also help making focusing easier. :)
Perhaps changing to a new unused commando word can also help. :D
 
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Thanks for uploading a video! That helped a lot :) she's a cutie by the way.

When you began the training session there was a couple problems off the bat. First, you used a really high pitched voice and ran with her, which is a good way to distract a dog and get them too excited to focus on training. There's a ton of smells outside, as well as sights and sounds that are extremely stimulating for a dogs sensitive senses.

Running with the dog gives the aura of the session more of a play vibe, as well as the high pitched fun calling of the dog.

I would suggest doing training sessions inside and introducing her to it in a calm and focused environment / tone. She looks distracted in the video, and even though she's looking at you, I can see in her eyes that she's not in a place in her mind where she is translating your words into an action she needs to perform.

For example, the word "Pojke" means boy in Swedish. The word "flicka" means girl, and "kvinna" means woman. If I just started a conversation asking you where the woman, the girl, and the boy were in Swedish, even if you had learned those words, it might take you a second to translate them, and if you weren't paying attention, you may not catch and process that in your mind. If that makes sense? That might be a horrible analogy haha I tried!

Secondly, your command "down" was a little drawn out and saying a command over and over is a good way to get a dog to tune you out. Sometimes Cosmo doesn't sit when I ask because he's looking around at the cars and people passing, but I never repeat the command. I touch him, get his full attention, make him look at me, and say "sit" and THEN he is like "oh, ok sure!" And sits.

Try only saying it once when the dog actually has your attention, and make it quick and sharp. "Down!" As opposed to "dooooown" could also make a difference.

Hope this helped!
hey your welcome anything to help me help my Jessie succeed in life id do anything for her even be happy to give her a kidney if she needed it i love her so much and owe her so much.

Reason i got her running like that was i was doing two things


  • it helps her recall
  • also was trying to make training more fun for her and thought it might help get her in the mood.
Also im trying the down with me on one knee with one leg up where she weaves under then down. She wont listen regardless when it comes to sit and down, she will stay though and for five mins! odd time she gets up though like on the video but then ive praised her so its ok but normally she stays down even when praised.


Only reason i chose backyard was because i wanted her to down today during tied up with the assessment and it was on grass that i was going to ask her to do that. so was trying to help her do that but agree to start inside but why wont she do it on front deck which is gated and blocked in?


How do i get her in the right frame of mind?


Ok i will try that (what you do to try get him to focus) but if she still doesnt then what? i repeat it to try encourage her but i see what you mean. Sure does help thanks, just confused to whats happened when she used to be so perfect at training and listening! will watching game work to get her to pay attention you think? Do you think its possible to achieve this in a months time for next cgc assessment ?


Will work on how i say down and try not to draw it out and thanks for sayig that shes a cutie :) sure is ad theres an adorable photo of her in the contest if you vote in the contests to take a look please :)

She seems a little distracted, perhaps she needs help to focuse more.
You also talk a lot with your dog during the training session, as it seems to me.
perhaps it is better to work quieter or even completely without sound and with handsigns.
I love chatting randomly with my dog :D, but usually when we train I try to only use the commando words and nothing else, otherwise it seemed to me, like he had difficulties to distinguish the commando from "random chatting".

high value treats can also help making focusing easier. :)
Perhaps changing to a new unused commando word can also help. :D
She is distracted a lot lately not sure why but then we have changed training clubs new dogs, new smells, new trainer and from January till a month ago i was really unable to train her due to health. Had surgery to remove endometriosis in feb then had complications from that and was hospitalized (no more surgery thank goodness) then had other problems with infections, lots of pain, winter ailments, migraines, the infections id finish a course of anti biotics then it would return! turned out to be because had cracked fillings that had leaked since those repaired only had a chest infection recently which i'm just over but still trained her because was determined to pass today! So been tough so missed two terms of training but soon as could for term 4 enrolled her! only had to change clubs because cant do monday evenings.

Yes i do talk alot its genetic that has been passed down from grandfather to my dad to me!

She doesn't get many walks is this part of the problem?

Re training treats im really am limited to what to use and they are natural high quality ones she cant have chicken(red belly) beef (gas) duck is too fatty for her colitis i think because she wasnt well after eating duck neck, cant have anything with vegetables or any form of vegetables in the treats either! however i see i need to really search for new training treats lamb gives her diareha and hair loss too. Really not easy dog to get treats for!

thanks so much both of you for quick replies grateful and appreciate it!
 

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One thing that I have noticed that a lot of sticklers would nail you on is repeating your cue. I counted "down" what... 3 or 4 times before she got distracted? That's my bad habit, too. :eek:

When you are repeating a cue more than once before the dog does the command, they begin to learn that they need to hear it 1, 2, 5, 10 times before they should actually do it. And dogs, being the awful counters that they are, will often find themselves listening blankly to "Fifi, down. Down! Down. Downnnnn.... DOWN..." While wondering vaguely to themselves if now is a good time to lay down on the ground.

My advice would be this:

1) Get a high-value treat that keeps her attention.
2) Issue the command, once and only once!
3) Give her 5 seconds to think it through. Sometimes commands just need to "compute" for a few moments.
4) If you lose her attention, or 5 seconds have passed, lure her into position and treat.
5) Rinse and repeat. Practice lots.

Good luck!
 

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One thing that I have noticed that a lot of sticklers would nail you on is repeating your cue. I counted "down" what... 3 or 4 times before she got distracted? That's my bad habit, too. :eek:

When you are repeating a cue more than once before the dog does the command, they begin to learn that they need to hear it 1, 2, 5, 10 times before they should actually do it. And dogs, being the awful counters that they are, will often find themselves listening blankly to "Fifi, down. Down! Down. Downnnnn.... DOWN..." While wondering vaguely to themselves if now is a good time to lay down on the ground.

My advice would be this:

1) Get a high-value treat that keeps her attention.
2) Issue the command, once and only once!
3) Give her 5 seconds to think it through. Sometimes commands just need to "compute" for a few moments.
4) If you lose her attention, or 5 seconds have passed, lure her into position and treat.
5) Rinse and repeat. Practice lots.

Good luck!
i didn't think dogs can count! re number 1 you will notice in my above post that i am very very limited to treats i can give her, that she gets high value training treats already but due to limited treats we often have to use same ones so got some roo bars for a change instead of her normal ones. This dog has many allergies intolerances and sensitivies and colitis so i have to be very careful with treats especially since they cant contain any form of vegetables even fibres and powders.

Will sure do the rest of your advice tomorow onwards though as she needs a break after sitting exam yesterday for cgc
 

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Right right riiight I forgot all about the big runaround you had with Jessie's diet.

One simple thing you can do to increase the value of food is to break it into smaller pieces... Precisely because dogs can't count or calculate very well. They also have a poor eye for quantity. So if you take a treat and break it in two or three, your dog sees that as "a bunch of treats" as opposed to one treat. A "jackpot" of several pieces of treat is always going to be more valuable to her than one single whole treat.
 

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Everyone's given you really good advice. :)

It's not that dog's can count it's that they learn they can tune you out, or take their sweet time doing a cue, when it's repeated. It's sort of like a little kid ignoring their parent when they tell them to go to bed.
Parent "Time for bed"
Kid thinks to himself... I'll do it in a minute....
Parent, "Time for bed now."
Kid thinks.. I still have a couple minutes
Parent, "GET INTO BED NOW!!!"
Kid, "runs and gets in bed."
They do that because they've learned that the parent will repeat herself at least 2 or 3 times before they really have to obey.

If you want to play with her, and drain some energy, before training, and it does help some dogs to concentrate, what I'd do is play with her for awhile, then sit and relax for a few minutes so that she has a chance to calm down then try training her. When I took Shadow to training class we'd walk there and it helped his hyper self drain some energy, when we got to the class we relaxed for a little bit before going in and it seemed to help him.

I suggest taking 2 or 3 days off training sessions. You can still ask for random cues here and there throughout the day, but no formal sessions. With Zody I'll stop in the middle of playing with him and ask for a cue, usually sit, touch, or shake, and when he does it I immediately start playing with him again. I think she may be a little stressed with all the training and it may help to take a few days off and just have fun. When you do start again, if you are doing long sessions, try breaking them up into 5 or 10 minute ones a few times a day, rather then one or two long ones. It's the difference between a kid having a 40 minute class and a 2 hours class, with the two hour one the attention starts to wander, with the 40 minute one it's easier to concentrate and focus.

If you feel yourself start to get frustrated with her stop the session and try again later. Even if you are faking not being frustrated she can likely still tell. Zody knows when I'm getting frustrated and his reactivity starts increasing accordingly, even if I"m faking being O.K.. When we get like that we just feed into each others mood so I've learned to end the walk and take him back inside.

Start in low distraction areas so that you are the most interesting thing around, work your way up to bigger distractions with your goal being to train with her in a place as distracting as the CGC location.

Good luck!
 
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Following what others have said, in the beginning of the video you issued the "down" command and treated even when she didn't comply.

Big no-no. That command is probably poisoned.

Start over with a new word and only treat (and always treat) when she goes down.
 

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Along the lines of no repeating cues...
Definitely focus on a single cue, but take it a step further and make sure you are only cueing Jesse when she is actually paying attention to you! a couple other things I have learned along the way that really help with focus are to allow dogs to acclimate (look, sniff, explore) first in a new/distracting place and then to start training sessions by capturing attention (wait for it to happen, mark, and reward with food and play) in those locations.

Looking at your video, personally I like your energy at the beginning. The moving away and happy voice. Training should be fun for both you and Jesse. I don't see any need to change that.;)

But watch the ''ah-ah's'' and tone of voice (became more serious and a bit frustrated after the ah-ah) if she isn't successful...
She was pretty engaged with you and comfy prior. Seemed body language wise that she checked out almost immediately after the ah-ah with the sniffing (potential displacement behavior), licks, averted gaze, looking away, etc. Jesse might be very sensitive and affected by it!

I agree with esand in that if you cue down, you'll want to only reward when she is actually in that down. You get what you reward. If you ask for a down and reward a bow, crouching, or anything other than a down, you'll continue to have a dog who doesn't go all the way down. If unable to lure a complete down right now, then just work on getting the movement and position. no verbal ''down''. You want to have the complete behavior in place before you name it!;)

I would also get rid of the food in hand as soon as you are able. You certainly might need to lure the down for a bit, but I bet that chase recall can be done without the treat in hand. Just ''Jesse come!'' and run away. When she catches you then reward by pulling treats out of your pocket and feeding with praise.

As far as the actual down, wait until you have eye contact and then ask her for the down. If she is not looking at you, you can try saying her name if she knows to look at you when she hears her name. Out of curiosity, try luring or cueing her with her beside you or perpendicular to you (you facing her side). Sometimes dogs are sensitive to body pressure and reluctant to down when the owner is leaning over them. Might make luring a tad easier for you. :)
 

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Just to add on to kmes point about no food in the hand.

When she goes down, mark immediately and then slowly pull out the treat. If she gets back up, put the treat away slowly, and repeat the command, if she goes down, mark again and pull out the treat.

This is good for a variety of training but here it really reinforces the relationship between the position and the treat.
 

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I cant reply to you all right now but want to acknowldege them! very helpful adn useful info in them! got to pack my overnight stuff to go home and have dinner once home will reply to you all! thanks so much!
 
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Right right riiight I forgot all about the big runaround you had with Jessie's diet.

One simple thing you can do to increase the value of food is to break it into smaller pieces... Precisely because dogs can't count or calculate very well. They also have a poor eye for quantity. So if you take a treat and break it in two or three, your dog sees that as "a bunch of treats" as opposed to one treat. A "jackpot" of several pieces of treat is always going to be more valuable to her than one single whole treat.
Its ok if it weren't for her developing colitis in last few months it might of made it bit easier but chosen ziwipeak air dried treats venison as its only venison meat with few mineral and parsley not the heart or kidney too like k9 natural so will see how she does with these ones as i have only tried 25 percent venison in her diet (raw)

i will be able to break down the treats as well with those where the roo bars are too hard, bunny bits alot easier so will ask for some more from her company i get food from.

I had a few bunny bits in a glad bag(one were seal it) jessie saw a jackpot and had her eyes focused on me so i used term watching and rewarded when she still looked at me she also went down but not the first time :eyeroll:

Everyone's given you really good advice. :)

It's not that dog's can count it's that they learn they can tune you out, or take their sweet time doing a cue, when it's repeated. It's sort of like a little kid ignoring their parent when they tell them to go to bed.
Parent "Time for bed"
Kid thinks to himself... I'll do it in a minute....
Parent, "Time for bed now."
Kid thinks.. I still have a couple minutes
Parent, "GET INTO BED NOW!!!"
Kid, "runs and gets in bed."
They do that because they've learned that the parent will repeat herself at least 2 or 3 times before they really have to obey.

If you want to play with her, and drain some energy, before training, and it does help some dogs to concentrate, what I'd do is play with her for awhile, then sit and relax for a few minutes so that she has a chance to calm down then try training her. When I took Shadow to training class we'd walk there and it helped his hyper self drain some energy, when we got to the class we relaxed for a little bit before going in and it seemed to help him.

I suggest taking 2 or 3 days off training sessions. You can still ask for random cues here and there throughout the day, but no formal sessions. With Zody I'll stop in the middle of playing with him and ask for a cue, usually sit, touch, or shake, and when he does it I immediately start playing with him again. I think she may be a little stressed with all the training and it may help to take a few days off and just have fun. When you do start again, if you are doing long sessions, try breaking them up into 5 or 10 minute ones a few times a day, rather then one or two long ones. It's the difference between a kid having a 40 minute class and a 2 hours class, with the two hour one the attention starts to wander, with the 40 minute one it's easier to concentrate and focus.

If you feel yourself start to get frustrated with her stop the session and try again later. Even if you are faking not being frustrated she can likely still tell. Zody knows when I'm getting frustrated and his reactivity starts increasing accordingly, even if I"m faking being O.K.. When we get like that we just feed into each others mood so I've learned to end the walk and take him back inside.

Start in low distraction areas so that you are the most interesting thing around, work your way up to bigger distractions with your goal being to train with her in a place as distracting as the CGC location.


Good luck!
now parts i bolded i really have something to say about and things i noticed with Jessie regarding those!

first part i bolded Now you have Jessie down to a T! thats sure her attitude which stinks its like that ummm let me get back to you on that one mummy or cant be bothered right now.

Second bit i bolded is i noticed when i am in the loinge nad get on the floor to train her she ignores me and goes right for a toy but ive been telling her no and trying to get her to train. Now this makes me think she has been telling me something that's now from what you said very obvious that she needs to drain energy first and maybe i don't play enough with her! this is the fantastic thing about this forum things i don't pick up on and cant understand i can post about and you all help me understand and help me see what i'm doing wrong! :)

we have done a tiny bit of training but i agree give her a few days off training! heck she until four pm was a flat tyre having taking being cut out of the assessment so soon having heard the word fail and having done so much hard work in the weeks leading up to assessment and then trying her best at the assessment she was drained! she only just back to herself! i went back to bed at lunch time with Jessie and she was sprawled against me or curled against my bum on top of the covers then sprawled on top of me wouldnt even do wee wees or respond to her name. wouldnt even go wees for grandad! so that told me she needs days off and i do too im exhausted since friday evening!

had some luck earlier she smelt treats in my handbag the bunny bits and i had her full attention as someone said above she saw the jackpot! so used watching , after wees i tried saying down once wouldnt do it so i went to get the bunny treats i said down wasnt right away so i used the luring motion and YAY! I HIT THE JACKPOT!


Following what others have said, in the beginning of the video you issued the "down" command and treated even when she didn't comply.

Big no-no. That command is probably poisoned.

Start over with a new word and only treat (and always treat) when she goes down.
where in the video did i reward her when she didnt go down? i dont recall that part of it. :ponder:
 

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Along the lines of no repeating cues...
Definitely focus on a single cue, but take it a step further and make sure you are only cueing Jesse when she is actually paying attention to you! a couple other things I have learned along the way that really help with focus are to allow dogs to acclimate (look, sniff, explore) first in a new/distracting place and then to start training sessions by capturing attention (wait for it to happen, mark, and reward with food and play) in those locations.

Looking at your video, personally I like your energy at the beginning. The moving away and happy voice. Training should be fun for both you and Jesse. I don't see any need to change that.;)

But watch the ''ah-ah's'' and tone of voice (became more seriois amd a bit frustrated after the ah-ah) if she isn't successful...
She was pretty engaged with you and comfy prior. Seemed body language wise that she checked out almost immediately after the ah-ah with the sniffing (potential displacement behavior), licks, averted gaze, looking away, etc. Jesse might be very sensitive and affected by it!


I agree with esand in that if you cue down, you'll want to only reward when she is actually in that down. You get what you reward. If you ask for a down and reward a bow, crouching, or anything other than a down, you'll continue to have a dog who doesn't go all the way down. If unable to lure a complete down right now, then just work on getting the movement and position. no verbal ''down''. You want to have the complete behavior in place before you name it!;)

I would also get rid of the food in hand as soon as you are able. You certainly might need to lure the down for a bit, but I bet that chase recall can be done without the treat in hand. Just ''Jesse come!'' and run away. When she catches you then reward by pulling treats out of your pocket and feeding with praise.

As far as the actual down, wait until you have eye contact and then ask her for the down. If she is not looking at you, you can try saying her name if she knows to look at you when she hears her name. Out of curiosity, try luring or cueing her with her beside you or perpendicular to you (you facing her side). Sometimes dogs are sensitive to body pressure and reluctant to down when the owner is leaning over them. Might make luring a tad easier for you. :)
Hey kmes! long time no see! glad to have you post your help, thanks for replying you have no idea how much i appreciate members replying especially those who have been around a long time.

I think someone else used the term mark? what exactly do you mean? i know what it means when a dog marks. i feel silly asking this. sorry.

Not always easy for me to have that energy but i was trying to make it exciting for her and she was more then happy at first about it!

Ah the ah-ahas have worked in the past to get her to go back down or in the position she was in before moving and it used to work wonders because she knew to pay attention but now not working and i wondered why! i wondered why she was comfy and happy prior and what i had done as a mistake to get her like that. Thank you now i know i can correct it! She is a sensitive dog if i said ah ah in a softer tone would that work or ditch it completely?

Bolded after the ah ahs because i think your right i did wonder why the licking etc i notice jessie when i talk to her at times does that licking and nods her head too i took it as agreement? or is that anxiety too? we were talking about her raw food at the time at 8/9pm at night at the time.

bolded these parts im not sure i fully get. especially try luring or cueing her with her beside you or perpendicular to you (you facing her side). unsure how id do that? can you please explain that a bit better?

Getting rid of food in hand as soon as possible meaning try to get her doing the down right away and when does really well start cutting treats out or only rewarding every second time then every third? or do you mean get a proper treat bag i can attach to my waist?

you know its good to see you , rain and the ones who have known Jessie and i from when we first joined this forum because over the years you have got to see her progress, acheivements, what needed help with and so on and she is 3 years soon! so wasnt excepting her to go backwards a bit just this last month but i do take full responsibility for it.

Just to add on to kmes point about no food in the hand.

When she goes down, mark immediately and then slowly pull out the treat. If she gets back up, put the treat away slowly, and repeat the command, if she goes down, mark again and pull out the treat.

This is good for a variety of training but here it really reinforces the relationship between the position and the treat.
this marking confuses me both you and kmes mentioned it. oh i agree if she doesnt do it put it back in the bag for sure! that will or shall i say should get her back on track fast because she will be most dissapointed to the point she may just do what i asked to get it back!
 
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this marking confuses me both you and kmes mentioned it. oh i agree if she doesnt do it put it back in the bag for sure! that will or shall i say should get her back on track fast because she will be most dissapointed to the point she may just do what i asked to get it back!
Mark refers to letting her know she performed the right behavior. It could be a "yes" or "good" when she goes down after the cue, or it could be the click of a clicker.

Other than that, I think everyone else gave great advice so I have nothing new to add :) But Jessie sure is cute!
 

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Getting rid of food in hand as soon as possible meaning try to get her doing the down right away and when does really well start cutting treats out or only rewarding every second time then every third? or do you mean get a proper treat bag i can attach to my waist?

you know its good to see you , rain and the ones who have known Jessie and i from when we first joined this forum because over the years you have got to see her progress, acheivements, what needed help with and so on and she is 3 years soon! so wasnt excepting her to go backwards a bit just this last month but i do take full responsibility for it.

Getting rid of having the food in your hand means that you still want to have it on you, in your pocket, in a treat pouch, or in a container near you but out of her sight, but don't have it in your hand. That's so that the reward does not become a bribe, you do not want to have to have the treat in your hand (a bribe) in order to have her do a cue. Having it out of her sight will help with that. That's where "marking" the behavior comes in. You either use your marker word (I use YES), a clicker, or a special noise, to mark the behavior, and then you get a treat out of your pocket, pouch, or where ever you may be keeping them. Remember that marking the behavior always = a treat, never use the marker and don't deliver a treat. I once accidentally told Zody YES and ended up having to give him a reward for nothing LOL, but marker always = reward so he got one. The marker lets the dog know they got it right and that the treat is coming, if you do not want to treat the behavior do not use the marker.

You start rewarding less when she is 99% reliable with the cue, and when you do that you'll only use your marker when you are going to reward her. Also when you move to training in a new location with more distractions remember to go back to rewarding her for the behavior every time she does it until she's reliable again. that's because to her it's like relearning the cue, she'll get it faster but it'll be harder at first, rewarding every time will help with that.

I love seeing how far you and Jessie have come! You do so good with her and y'all are a great team:huddle:
 
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Mark refers to letting her know she performed the right behavior. It could be a "yes" or "good" when she goes down after the cue, or it could be the click of a clicker.

Other than that, I think everyone else gave great advice so I have nothing new to add :) But Jessie sure is cute!
Ah like saying good girl Jessie! i might try yes to see how much quicker it helps :) and thanks yes she knows she sure is cute :) but always nice to hear it thanks :) make sure you look in the contest for her photo because i think it will melt your heart.

Getting rid of having the food in your hand means that you still want to have it on you, in your pocket, in a treat pouch, or in a container near you but out of her sight, but don't have it in your hand. That's so that the reward does not become a bribe, you do not want to have to have the treat in your hand (a bribe) in order to have her do a cue. Having it out of her sight will help with that. That's where "marking" the behavior comes in. You either use your marker word (I use YES), a clicker, or a special noise, to mark the behavior, and then you get a treat out of your pocket, pouch, or where ever you may be keeping them. Remember that marking the behavior always = a treat, never use the marker and don't deliver a treat. I once accidentally told Zody YES and ended up having to give him a reward for nothing LOL, but marker always = reward so he got one. The marker lets the dog know they got it right and that the treat is coming, if you do not want to treat the behavior do not use the marker.

You start rewarding less when she is 99% reliable with the cue, and when you do that you'll only use your marker when you are going to reward her. Also when you move to training in a new location with more distractions remember to go back to rewarding her for the behavior every time she does it until she's reliable again. that's because to her it's like relearning the cue, she'll get it faster but it'll be harder at first, rewarding every time will help with that.

I love seeing how far you and Jessie have come! You do so good with her and y'all are a great team:huddle:
ok but i dont know how i can have it out of sight when it will come to out the back garden no table to put it on and similar for front deck though can place it on top of it well wellington NZ is the windiest city in the world seriously google says that too. That means in a second or less then a second treats will go flying everywhere so i need a treat pouch then!

I thought having the treat in hand was ok and been doing that for so long! my bad mistake i was bribing her without realizing it! :eek:

oh for sure will i reward her less once so reliable at it! it was like doing tied up i had to build up her confidence by going back every so often with treat then move away and repeat but once she had that confidence i tested her to how long without a treat eg a minute though she appears fully confident at home outside of home she will bark so i need to build up that confidence again there but only because is a new place.

Thanks stacy! its always good to see how far we all come with our loved dogs mine of which is at my feet on top of the covers lol didnt realise she was there till now.
 
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