I'd condition to the muzzle-it keeps people away a bit easier to be honest, exploiting the muzzle stigma helps. Makes that side of things a tad easier, less grabby hands in general.
Make sure you bring extra special treats out and pass them to him whenever he looks at someone or you encounter someone. He doesn't need to be doing anything other than not lunging/barking-reward until the person passes and is gone. If that's too hard, back up until he'll take the treats and give him lots at that distance. You'll know what distance is okay to work at based off his reaction to eating/the stimulus. This is way easier to do out in the bush than in a city, so I would push walks to somewhere less busy/populated if you can drive there first. You can also adjust when you do walks to suit the neighborhood-go when people are busy and are not outside. Koda used to be scared of the dark but she loves night time walks now because it means no construction and fewer dogs around (her weaknesses) so overall less stress.
I have also literally shrieked and run away from strangers who wouldn't listen and continued approaching. "He's contagious" works better than "he bites" because everyone thinks that they know best and they're so sweet why would ANY dog bite them? When it has nothing to do with them and has everything to do with the dog's genetics and environment. When people in the elevator tell me they aren't scared of my dogs, I tell them that's great-but my dog is scared of them, so to please not touch or look at them. Ideally, we get out before someone rushes us into a corner. Do your absolute best to not back him into a situation where he can't run away-and that means preparing well in advance, as I'm sure you've started to experience.
There's lots more that can be said but I think this and the stickies on reactivity would be a good start for you. There's no reason to feel bad, you're working on increasing the quality of life for a fearful dog, and its not easy. People are rude. Good luck!
Make sure you bring extra special treats out and pass them to him whenever he looks at someone or you encounter someone. He doesn't need to be doing anything other than not lunging/barking-reward until the person passes and is gone. If that's too hard, back up until he'll take the treats and give him lots at that distance. You'll know what distance is okay to work at based off his reaction to eating/the stimulus. This is way easier to do out in the bush than in a city, so I would push walks to somewhere less busy/populated if you can drive there first. You can also adjust when you do walks to suit the neighborhood-go when people are busy and are not outside. Koda used to be scared of the dark but she loves night time walks now because it means no construction and fewer dogs around (her weaknesses) so overall less stress.
I have also literally shrieked and run away from strangers who wouldn't listen and continued approaching. "He's contagious" works better than "he bites" because everyone thinks that they know best and they're so sweet why would ANY dog bite them? When it has nothing to do with them and has everything to do with the dog's genetics and environment. When people in the elevator tell me they aren't scared of my dogs, I tell them that's great-but my dog is scared of them, so to please not touch or look at them. Ideally, we get out before someone rushes us into a corner. Do your absolute best to not back him into a situation where he can't run away-and that means preparing well in advance, as I'm sure you've started to experience.
There's lots more that can be said but I think this and the stickies on reactivity would be a good start for you. There's no reason to feel bad, you're working on increasing the quality of life for a fearful dog, and its not easy. People are rude. Good luck!