How can I get my puppy to socialise and not bark at other dogs??

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How can I get my puppy to socialise and not bark at other dogs??

This is a discussion on How can I get my puppy to socialise and not bark at other dogs?? within the Puppy Help forums, part of the Dog Training and Behavior category; Hello, I currently own a 7 month Old Yoranian, which is a Yorkshire Terrier cross Pomeranian, called Tinkabelle. She is so sweet and good with ...

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Old 01-02-2012, 02:48 PM
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Exclamation How can I get my puppy to socialise and not bark at other dogs??

Hello,
I currently own a 7 month Old Yoranian, which is a Yorkshire Terrier cross Pomeranian, called Tinkabelle. She is so sweet and good with people however when she is out on a walk she is badly behaved.
She barks at other dogs and chases after them when she spots them from across the Park and we have to run after her as she doesn't always come back, she does know the command 'come here' however she doesn't listen.
Also if we are walking past another dog and she is on the lead she will again bark...
Finally if we are talking to a dog owner in the park Tinkabelle will jump around and squirm away from the other dog when it comes near her and sniffs her.
Please help as we don't know what we can do...!! We want her to socialise and not bark so any suggestions??
Thank you
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:54 PM
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Welcome!

It sounds like your dog is somewhat reactive. Here is our sticky on how to counter condition your dog.

https://www.dogforum.com/dog-behavior...tration-12538/

The key is working with the dog under threshold (when she can see the other dog but doesn't react), and making all experiences with other dogs positive, calm ones. Let us know if you have specific questions after reading the sticky.

Personally, I would also keep her on-leash so that she doesn't build the habit of running away from you/ignoring you until you can CC the reactivity and work on a solid recall.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:01 PM
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Seebrown has extensive experience with all this, so trust her advice on this! Training a reactive dog to be calm around other dogs takes time, and you must not do anything resembling "correction" when she "misbehaves." The behavior is based on the fact the dog is not comfortable (read at least slightly afraid) around other dogs. So all the work you do is to increase positive associations for your pup regarding other dogs.

Taking it slow, and keeping the dog "below threshold" are keys.
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:56 AM
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Question

The link is very helpful, thank you it has given me ways to try and encourage Tinkabelle to not bark at other dogs and hopefully conquer her fear!
I watch a lot of Cesar Milan and me and my Family try and use his techniques to help her but so far its not worked well with the barking.
However there is a technique we haven't yet tried, which is walking her past stationary dogs. Would this help her become more comfortable with other dogs?

Recently I have walked her with my friends year old yorkshire terrier she is a girl and after a half an hour on our walk she stopped barking and chasing her and walked and played with her. By socializing her with my friends dog will this help her understand that all dogs wont hurt her?

Also In the link it mentions using a clicker... I haven't got opne but I was thinking of getting one... would a clicker be affective with her barking?
Finally could we buy a training lead a 10metre to teach her not to run at other dogs across the park?
Thank you so much for helping
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
I watch a lot of Cesar Milan and me and my Family try and use his techniques to help her but so far its not worked well with the barking.
I'm not surprised it hasn't helped. Cesar's methods are based on suppression and shutdown: basically intimidating the dog so much that it no longer chooses to behave the way it is feeling - but it still wants to behave however it feels. We have a great sticky on it, and I really encourage you to read it. It will help you understand why his methods don't really work, and why we should never use them on our pups.

https://www.dogforum.com/dog-training...-fallout-4776/

The other reason not to use these very aversive methods are because you can actually make a reactive dog worse. Think about it: your dog sees another dog and gets excited. Chemicals are being released in her body, she is barking and acting crazy. Now, you start jerking her leash and yelling at her (I'm not saying you do this, just giving it as an example). You are reinforcing for her that whatever she is reacting to is worthy of excitement, further exciting her. Now when she sees other dogs, she is even more excited, maybe even aggressive because other dogs now = discomfort or pain because of the leash jerks. Over time, do you think this will modify her behavior or make her worse? The sticky explains it much better, but basically aversives are not a safe way to train with reactive dogs.

Quote:
However there is a technique we haven't yet tried, which is walking her past stationary dogs. Would this help her become more comfortable with other dogs?
If she isn't reacting, you can walk by other dogs while treating her. Better yet, have the dogs walk past her and treat her. That's the open bar/closed bar method that the reactivity sticky touches on. With a reactive dog, you really begin to know the dog's body language the more of these games you play. You can anticipate when their trigger is too close and back off so that the dog is still learning. All of the games mentioned in the sticky will help (LAT, open bar/closed bar, etc.).

TBH, counter conditioning reactivity isn't a quick fix. There is no training that will be a true quick fix (without damaging your dog). The members here who have counter conditioned it say it generally takes about a year, but it all depends on how reactive your dog is and how dedicated you are. Your dog sounds more excited than aggressive, which is great; it seems like she is only mildly reactive. That is much easier to train.

Quote:
Recently I have walked her with my friends year old yorkshire terrier she is a girl and after a half an hour on our walk she stopped barking and chasing her and walked and played with her. By socializing her with my friends dog will this help her understand that all dogs wont hurt her?
In short, no. Dogs don't generalize. It's like potty training. You take the dog outside often so that they build up the habit. It takes multiple repetitions for them to build this habit. The more positive you make pottying outside (food rewards), the quicker they learn. Now you go to your friend's house, and your dog may have an accident inside. The potty training in your house was a good foundation for your friend's house, but your dog may still need more training in this new house. The same may be true when you go inside a pet store, or when you move to a new house, etc.

The same principle applies to reactivity. Once your dog learns calm behavior around one other dog, they won't immediately be calm around all dogs, but it is a good foundation. She may be better with the next dog. Then the next. Eventually, after, say, 100 positive experiences with new dogs (along side the reactivity training), her behavior will be modified. Regular play dates with safe dogs are a good way to help mildly reactive dogs.

Also, there is a point where you are no longer socializing a dog, you are desensitizing them. Socialization is for puppies, but older dogs who have reactivity can't really be "socialized" in the sense that puppies can. I'm only pointing it out so you understand that Tinkabelle needs positive experiences with other dogs to effectively modify the behavior. Exposing her to dogs where she is reacting to them (barking and acting crazy) will only increase the behavior. This is another reason by dominance-based training won't work in her case.

Quote:
Also In the link it mentions using a clicker... I haven't got opne but I was thinking of getting one... would a clicker be affective with her barking?
Finally could we buy a training lead a 10metre to teach her not to run at other dogs across the park?
Clicker training is just marker training using the clicker to mark the behavior. If you aren't comfortable with using a clicker, you can use a marker word like "yes" or "good girl", but the idea is that this sound always = food, so the dog learns very quickly to offer behaviors that give them the mark. Some dogs learn quicker with a clicker because its sound is distinct and consistent, but it isn't necessary.

Please let us know how it goes. We've had a lot of members come on here with reactive dogs looking for help (including myself), and these methods really do work!
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:28 AM
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Forgot to reply to your question about the long line. I would probably not do this. Again, you want to build positive, calm experiences with other dogs. The more she acts crazy, the more that habit will be reinforced with her. You don't want to flood her with her trigger, you want to intro it slowly and reinforce calm, happy behavior, and slowly move closer to the trigger as she can stay calm. That is what counter conditioning is all about.

We also have some great videos linked to in the videos section. I'd take a look at those too. The more you understand how to counter condition reactivity, the easier a time you'll have with it.

https://www.dogforum.com/dog-training...26/#post146549
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:16 PM
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Thank you so much for your help I purchased a clicker and it seems to catch her attention more than verbal praise. I have taken her out a few times with it and tried the "Look At That Game" while in the park, which was on the first link you sent me. This seems to work really well also if she barks at the dog I immediately change direction to snap her out of her behaviour, this also works well as it helps her calm down quicker and not let her get into a high energy state.
I will let you know if all is resolved Thank you again for the help you have given me.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:32 PM
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You're welcome. It sounds like it's going well, and I'm sure you'll slowly start to see a difference.
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