Socializing vs sensitizing: be selective, & keep it happy.

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Socializing vs sensitizing: be selective, & keep it happy.

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Old 10-25-2017, 09:02 AM
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Thumbs up Socializing vs sensitizing: be selective, & keep it happy.

on another thread, @Floki asked -
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floki View Post

I知 just jumping in here, since I知 learning with a 14 week old pup, American bulldog.
I always let people pet him, I was hoping this would keep him social.
Am I wrong? Now I do ask people to tell him to sit, or I will, then they can pet etc.

Almost, but not quite.

Socializing a pup is not just indiscriminate exposure ['everybody'] - the key is to make Pup's encounters with friendly strangers / any strangers HAPPY experiences.
If there are ppl Pup would rather not meet, U should honor (her or) his preferences, so that U don't taint the pup's experiences of non-family. // U can always expand a pup's or dog's circle of acquaintances, later -- in puphood, we want all their social encounters to be happy memories.

Similarly, in habituation - when we accustom Pup to anything not living; socialization is to living beings, regardless of species - we want the pup's experiences to be HAPPY, not overwhelming, exhausting, too loud, etc.
I wouldn't want my pup's 1st experience of an elevator to be the open freight lift at a construction site, with all the clamor of pneumatic wrenches, screech & clang of steel beams, men shouting into walkie-talkies, heavy equipment rumbling, diesel fumes, & so on, while we ride an open platform of timber in an open-air chute! -
ground level at a distance, to hear the noises, is fine, or overlooking the site from a distance to see & hear the action [at lower volume] is fine, but U don't want to stack all those novel factors - overwhelming noise & volume, ceaseless activity, AND shouting male strangers, plus a first-time belly-sinking elevator ride.

Individual pups arrive in their owners' homes at different ages -
for pups who leave dam & sibs at 56-DO, the general benchmark for minimum age, the goal is to happily meet a total of at least 100 friendly strangers between 8-WO & 12-WO, over that key month, & they should all differ as much as possible from each other, AND differ from the pup's family household as much as possible.

That's an average of 25 varied strangers per week - a fairly high goal, if U aim for maximum diversity.
They should differ in age, skin color, language, size [tall / short & heavy / petite], diet - very important to a pup, as it makes us smell different! - able-bodied or disabled, manner - fast-talking bouncy ppl vs slow-speaking quiet ppl, & so on - with & without accessories [hat, glasses, golf club, tennis racket, huge mirrored sunglasses that look like mantis eyes, umbrellas, jangling monster key clusters that weigh a pound or more, motorcycle helmet / bike helmet, fireman's gear,...], & also with & without mobility aids -
crutches, cane, wheelchair, walker, etc.

Drapey clothes that flap in a brisk breeze, nylon windbreakers that shush loudly as the wearer moves, sashes & fringe & scarves that dangle invitingly but must NOT be chewed or pulled, leather garments that creak & groan, velcro that makes loud ripping noises, snaps, etc - these are all part of socialization & manners, even tho they overlap as habituation to stimuli.

If a really-tall man is intimidating, get Pup up onto a pedestal before introducing him - the bench of a picnic table, a concrete bollard, the 2.5-ft square top of a city trashcan. Then Pup can meet the 6'6" guy with less looming over, & feel more comfortable.
Men's deep voices & very-direct, sometimes abrupt mannerisms can intimidate pups; women & girls are in general, less threatening than boys & men, so be sure to meet lots of male persons, but make the encounters pleasant.

Let Pup approach ppl s/he wants to meet, at least some of the time - don't always have the person approach the pup; empower the puppy to engage, with permission [waving a hand & arm toward someone invitingly after U ask that person if they'd like to meet the puppy, is a quickly understood gesture - dogs are good at gestural comprehension].

Repeated, short exposures are always better than marathons - if U take Pup to a Bark in the Park event, take frequent breaks from the crowd!

Have fun, but bear in mind that pups grow-up quickly; 6-mos is puberty [our 12 to 15-YO period], & it's approaching fast. Anything after 6-MO is considered rehabilitative / B-Mod, not ordinary socialization or habituation.

- terry

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Old 10-25-2017, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leashedForLife View Post
on another thread, @Floki asked -


Almost, but not quite.

Socializing a pup is not just indiscriminate exposure ['everybody'] - the key is to make Pup's encounters with friendly strangers / any strangers HAPPY experiences.
If there are ppl Pup would rather not meet, U should honor (her or) his preferences, so that U don't taint the pup's experiences of non-family. // U can always expand a pup's or dog's circle of acquaintances, later -- in puphood, we want all their social encounters to be happy memories.

Similarly, in habituation - when we accustom Pup to anything not living; socialization is to living beings, regardless of species - we want the pup's experiences to be HAPPY, not overwhelming, exhausting, too loud, etc.
I wouldn't want my pup's 1st experience of an elevator to be the open freight lift at a construction site, with all the clamor of pneumatic wrenches, screech & clang of steel beams, men shouting into walkie-talkies, heavy equipment rumbling, diesel fumes, & so on, while we ride an open platform of timber in an open-air chute! -
ground level at a distance, to hear the noises, is fine, or overlooking the site from a distance to see & hear the action [at lower volume] is fine, but U don't want to stack all those novel factors - overwhelming noise & volume, ceaseless activity, AND shouting male strangers, plus a first-time belly-sinking elevator ride.

Individual pups arrive in their owners' homes at different ages -
for pups who leave dam & sibs at 56-DO, the general benchmark for minimum age, the goal is to happily meet a total of at least 100 friendly strangers between 8-WO & 12-WO, over that key month, & they should all differ as much as possible from each other, AND differ from the pup's family household as much as possible.

That's an average of 25 varied strangers per week - a fairly high goal, if U aim for maximum diversity.
They should differ in age, skin color, language, size [tall / short & heavy / petite], diet - very important to a pup, as it makes us smell different! - able-bodied or disabled, manner - fast-talking bouncy ppl vs slow-speaking quiet ppl, & so on - with & without accessories [hat, glasses, golf club, tennis racket, huge mirrored sunglasses that look like mantis eyes, umbrellas, jangling monster key clusters that weigh a pound or more, motorcycle helmet / bike helmet, fireman's gear,...], & also with & without mobility aids -
crutches, cane, wheelchair, walker, etc.

Drapey clothes that flap in a brisk breeze, nylon windbreakers that shush loudly as the wearer moves, sashes & fringe & scarves that dangle invitingly but must NOT be chewed or pulled, leather garments that creak & groan, velcro that makes loud ripping noises, snaps, etc - these are all part of socialization & manners, even tho they overlap as habituation to stimuli.

If a really-tall man is intimidating, get Pup up onto a pedestal before introducing him - the bench of a picnic table, a concrete bollard, the 2.5-ft square top of a city trashcan. Then Pup can meet the 6'6" guy with less looming over, & feel more comfortable.
Men's deep voices & very-direct, sometimes abrupt mannerisms can intimidate pups; women & girls are in general, less threatening than boys & men, so be sure to meet lots of male persons, but make the encounters pleasant.

Let Pup approach ppl s/he wants to meet, at least some of the time - don't always have the person approach the pup; empower the puppy to engage, with permission [waving a hand & arm toward someone invitingly after U ask that person if they'd like to meet the puppy, is a quickly understood gesture - dogs are good at gestural comprehension].

Repeated, short exposures are always better than marathons - if U take Pup to a Bark in the Park event, take frequent breaks from the crowd!

Have fun, but bear in mind that pups grow-up quickly; 6-mos is puberty [our 12 to 15-YO period], & it's approaching fast. Anything after 6-MO is considered rehabilitative / B-Mod, not ordinary socialization or habituation.

- terry

That was a great explaination, thanks! So far our pup wants to greet every single person he sees, I make him sit if the person seems like they want to interact and then he loves on them. I really like when people ask me first, especially kids, that痴 great manners. However, just 3 days ago a man in camoflough in a sporting goods store approached and asked if he could pet and then squatted down and I said sure, pup walked to him all friendly and tail wagging, then abruptly huffed and ran behind me! The man stood up and said, 登h I知 sorry I smell like elk blood I hadn稚 noticed but his entire lower half was covered in blood! Sooo pup hates the smell of death apparently. Ha.
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Old 10-25-2017, 10:40 AM
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Talking Yay!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Floki View Post

..., just 3 days ago a man in camoflough in a sporting goods store approached and asked if he could pet and then squatted down and I said sure, pup walked to him all friendly and tail wagging, then abruptly huffed and ran behind me!

The man stood up and said, 登h I知 sorry I smell like elk blood I hadn稚 noticed but his entire lower half was covered in blood! Sooo pup hates the smell of death apparently. Ha.


it's very good that the puppy got HIMSELF out of an uncomfortable situation, rather than freeze, snap at the man, etc, & moreover, he sees -you- as a protector & ally -
if he did not, rather than run behind & use U as a shield, he would have tried to bolt / flee the vicinity of the man with bloody clothes.

So that's very telling, & very happy news - the pup has faith in U, a priceless grace. Keep up the good work!

- terry

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Old 10-25-2017, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leashedForLife View Post


it's very good that the puppy got HIMSELF out of an uncomfortable situation, rather than freeze, snap at the man, etc, & moreover, he sees -you- as a protector & ally -
if he did not, rather than run behind & use U as a shield, he would have tried to bolt / flee the vicinity of the man with bloody clothes.

So that's very telling, & very happy news - the pup has faith in U, a priceless grace. Keep up the good work!

- terry

That痴 great news! Yay
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Old 10-25-2017, 01:42 PM
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You may find https://drsophiayin.com/app/uploads/..._Checklist.pdf a useful source of reference and ideas
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Ptolemy82 View Post
You may find https://drsophiayin.com/app/uploads/..._Checklist.pdf a useful source of reference and ideas
That痴 a great list. Thank you! I love that I can do every single item listed on the part about touching him here and there. There痴 a few loud noises he痴 not heard yet, skateboards etc...he finally got use to my husbands very loud Harley. Ha. I believe he痴 doing well so far.
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Old 10-26-2017, 11:17 AM
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I can only reiterate what was said by @leashedForLife

"that's very telling, & very happy news - the pup has faith in U, a priceless grace"
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:25 PM
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more resources, & a nod to Ian Dunbar, DVM



another wonderful resource for puppy-owners [or adopters of untrained, undersocialized, naive adult dogs]

dogstardaily.com/free-downloads

I'd download both books - Before U Get Ur Puppy[u]...] & the follow-up, After...

There are also a slew of topical sheets on preventing various problem behaviors, teaching desired behaviors, articles, B-Mod [treat N' retreat], etc.

Ian Dunbar is the fella who popularized PUPPY training, when the old-fashioned model of "training classes when the pup is 6-MO or older" still ruled. That's the equivalent of waiting till the kid is 12 to 15-YO to send 'em to school, & the rationale was that "training was too harsh" for young pups.

Nowadays, SD pups start training when they are a mere 4-WO, & they're rewarded with milk-replacer, warm quiet praise, & petting. // We've come such a long, long way, since the days of mandatory choke-chains & minimum 6-MO dogs -- which is why i find it so disturbing that one man with a bully-pulpit [CM/DW with Nat'l Geo channel's endorsement & a 30-minute non-prime-time series] could set us back past 40-years of progress, in humane training. Unbelievable.

observation:
Western Europeans just seem to have a bias toward punitive tactics - i-e, jail for minor crimes, or for an inability to pay court fines, & when positive-punishment doesn't work, we punish harder [e-g, the "war on drugs", which has been singularly, disastrously ineffective, & ruined many lives - while enriching police departments & Federal agencies, who confiscate private property].
We have an 85% recidivism rate in the USA, with one of the most-incarcerated popns of any developed nation.
Nordic countries have recidivism rates of 15 to 40%, jail far-fewer ppl, & don't jam them into sardine-tins, where overcrowding & social stress only exacerbate anger, frustration, & racial tensions among inmates.

https://mic.com/articles/109138/swed...-the-u-s-won-t

Implications & downstream FX in the U-S:
the growing number of for-profit prisons, run by private firms, is especially worrying - slave labor is cheap; one of the jobs now often filled by inmates is travel arrangements over the phone, via 800#s.
Some prison systems pay as little as $1 / day - think of the savings in wages, Soc-Sec, paid sick-days, etc, etc, vs hired workers - who are free to leave for other jobs.

If we could extend the concept of pos-R to the way we rear & school our children, what changes might we see?
Think of the complex behaviors dogs learn in Freestyle / HTM, using a marker & rewards - what could disadvantaged children learn, do, & become, with a supportive community & schooling that goof-proofs the process of learning, rewards co-operation, & encourages growth?


- terry


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