I think I see part of your problem. I'm going to assume that when you say "biting" you mean the kind of biting involved in play and not an attack.
Originally Posted by MintLatte
He usually bites me when I'm sitting on the couch. I do push him away yeah or try to distract him. We do give him peanut butter but I am not sure if that's a bad thing(like it being a reward).
Ok... what you're doing here is reinforcing the behaviour. Dog's minds are really linear.
He bites you, you give him attention and peanut butter. So what the dog learns is "when I bite I get play time and peanut butter".
He likes play time and peanut butter.... so what do you think he learned to do when he wants it?
If you want to teach the dog to stop that then you need to discourage the behaviour. There are basically four ways you can do that. They fall out like this. I'm going to use the words "positive" and "negative" but you need to understand before you read this that what I mean by positive is to *add* something and by negative I mean to *remove* something. It's not what you usually think when you hear those words.
(sidebar: if you want to learn a little more about operant conditioning, you can start with a website like this one: https://courses.lumenlearning.com/wa...-conditioning/
1) positive reinforcement:
a) *add* something the dog doesn't like
. For example, you could spray him in the face with a water bottle. I'm not suggesting you do this, but for the concept it is illustrative.
b) *add* something the dog likes
. You would do this when the dog STOPS biting you and you want to reward that. For example, you can let him sniff the peanut butter but only GIVE it to him when he STOPS biting. This is how most dog training is approached these days.
2) negative reinforcement:
a) *removed* something the dog doesn't like
. This isn't used much in training but conceptually you could see it like this. Suppose you play an uncomfortable sound that the dog doesn't like as soon as he starts biting and only STOP playing that sound when the dog STOPS biting. That would be this kind of thing.
Another example would be if you were to pinch the dog when he starts to bite and stop pinching him when he stops. Old school trainers used this technique but it's totally taboo today. I'm including it for completeness.
b) *remove* something the dog likes.
For example, if he bites you could get up and leave the room, taking the peanut butter with you. Close the door and come back to try again in a few minutes. Each time he bites, you leave and come back later. Eventually the coin will drop.
Approaches built around 1b and 2b are common in dog training these days.
So.... you can try this: When your dog comes around to "play", let him sniff the peanut butter but don't give him any. If he plays "nice" then give him peanut butter (1b). If he starts mouthing/biting, then pick up the peanut butter and leave the room with it for +/- 5min (2b), rinse and repeat.
With a few dozen repetitions, you should start to see a marked difference in his behaviour. Beyond that, it's a question of fine tuning.
I do hide in the bathroom when he's biting me but I'm not sure if that counts.These are all pretty good ideas, I'd probably have to talk to my parents about some of them. I've actually never even took him for a walk(my sister's done it mostly).
Hiding in the bathroom is a little like 2b but it's not effective if the dog is allowed to wait outside the door for you to come out. That's just playing hide-and-seek with him. To really apply 2b, the DOG needs to be isolated, not you.