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Cord vs Tape leashes for dogs

38K views 49 replies 13 participants last post by  BrittaS 
#1 ·
I have a Flexi cord leash now for my Pug (w/ harness). Dropped the Flexi in the toilet once. :) Since then it's ceased a few times when I wanted to retract the leash. I guess I rusted out some component. And will be in need of a new leash.

When I first got my puppy the sales girl at Pet Smart recommended "tape leashes". Never said why? Are they better than cod leashes? If so why?

I thin there are also "belt leashes"?

Have always used cord leashes. Never dropped them in the toilet. :)
 
#2 ·
If you are taking a flat leash vs a round rope type leash I how found the flat leases easier to grab onto and control closer to the collar if needed. More surface area to grab on to and put pressure against your hand vs a rope burn with a cord type leash if the dog has other ideas than stopping right then and there.

...but I have a 65lb sled dog at times. Smaller dogs would seem it would just be personal preference.
 
#3 ·
Personally I hate flexi leashes .......most people don't know how to use them safely ........got a really good 'rope burn' on my legs from a elderly lady who let her dog run circles around me while chasing my Molly and I nearly face planted!! So if you must use one I would say the tape style would be safer!
 
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#4 ·
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks people. I did definitely notice mild "cord burn" as we at times can't rely on using the catch once the line is extended beyond a certain length. :) Even with my now almost 14 pound Pug puppy he can still be a handful to control in a split second...where I have had to grab the cord.

Guess my next retractable will be a tape variety. As the Flexi cord leash I have now sometimes ceases due to a faulty mechanism that might have rusted out because I dropped it in the loo one day...or possibly a "piece" inside broke after I dropped it on the ground a few times (e.g. as my dog suddenly sprinted towards a squirrel).

My Pug has long legs (long for Pugs who typically have short legs) so mine is a runner/sprinter and fairly acrobatic (playing with his friends...huge Mastiff..probably 70-90 pounder..played together since he was 8 weeks).

Thanks for posting the link Rain. I think most owners aren't aware of the possible "dangers" of using a cord based leash. Especially with large dogs. Though, in my area large dogs are rarely on retractable leashes. Usually a metal chain or I'm guessing nylon rope type leash. With my previous 2 dogs (Pekingese then a Shih Tzu) the most I ever got was a very faint burn if even. They weren't as strong as my Pug pup or sprinters/jumpers.
 
#11 ·
Thanks people. I did definitely notice mild "cord burn" as we at times can't rely on using the catch once the line is extended beyond a certain length. :) Even with my now almost 14 pound Pug puppy he can still be a handful to control in a split second...where I have had to grab the cord.
Still don't agree. Ours isn't 14 pounds. He's 80 pounds. Muscle and bone. And no lead required. I walk, he walks. May we/he just got lucky. Or he did. Or both.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I think all dogs should be on a leash at all times (unless in one's own backyard if fenced). For the dog's own safety and that of others. Some of the nicest and most affectionate dogs just don't click with a few others for whatever the reason. Or, the dog might be distracted suddenly by an object it finds interesting and dart. Maybe into the road. Mine has done that. If I didn't have a retractable I would have had no chance at all to pull him in in a split second.

Though, I suppose using a non-retractable just becomes a matter of routine I suppose. It's just the "what if" situations I think might make those leashes iffy.

And, what gets me are the owners with large breed dogs who clearly are not strong enough to control them in a sudden emergency. :) But that's another story for another thread. Such as a 120 pound woman with a 90 pound dog (e.g. Akita, Mastiff...).
 
#9 ·
I think all dogs should be on a leash at all times .
I respectfully disagree. That's not to say ours never goes on a lead. We do so where he has to cross a road for example although he obeys the "wait" and "cross" commands. The lead is a precaution.

For the most part, we walk in parks and woodlands. He gets to run around, sniff things, and meet and greet his friends. He gets far more exercise than walking with us at our speed.

I've just come back from our last walk. It's 8:30 pm here and pitch black. I just open our front door and off we go. No lead required. It's common green land so no road traffic.
He is a mostly black dog so I can't always tell where he is. But he knows where I am. And where our front door is. In fact, he is sometimes back there before I am.








Though, I suppose using a non-retractable just becomes a matter of routine I suppose. It's just the "what if" situations I think might make those leashes iffy.

And, what gets me are the owners with large breed dogs who clearly are not strong enough to control them in a sudden emergency. :) But that's another story for another thread. Such as a 120 pound woman with a 90 pound dog (e.g. Akita, Mastiff...).[/QUOTE]
 
#8 ·
Have used a 16 foot flexi leash which is a cord leash. I can lock it pretty quickly if necessary, and have never had a problem controlling Samantha with it. Using arm and wrist motions I can get it retracted in seconds, whether Samantha cooperates or not.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I'll have to respectfully disagree with you on possibly "always have full control" using a non-retractable "no matter how far he/she goes". Non-retractable leashes are almost always fully extended and usually the owner only has one hand on the leash (and maybe a coffee in the other, holding hand of wife or GF..etc.)

So many scenarios where things could go seriously wrong not using a retractable. Even when using a retractable. But the advantage is IF in need the option is there.

For me it's Pug on leash + retractable (tape) variety.

Did get the Flexi "tape" leash last week. Is definitely better when you suddenly or just want to grab on to the leash to control a very active dog (e.g. in elevator w/ others joining you whether they're good w/ dogs ore seriously afraid). So much easier on the skin. :) Should have bought a retractable "tape" leash the first time (though, I'd still have dropped it in the loo that one time..hope it's the last). :)
 
#22 ·
We all have our own views on retractable (cord or tape) vs non-retractable ("rope").

To summarize again..I don't see how using a "rope" (w/ or w/o rings) any one can suddenly stop a fast dog from accelerating into maybe on coming traffic when you least expect..or notice not in time..when fractions of a second matter. Unless your dog is very mellow and an older dog. Will almost always walk to your side and almost never explore or chase cats, squirrels, "interesting" debris blowing in the wind..etc.

Cost? Yes, retractable leashes (e.g. Flexi) for large dogs can be expensive at $60-100.00 (depending where you shop). But if I had maybe a 90-pound Cane Corso, I'd make the investment.

While I'm no dog "expert" I have owned 2 in my life time. In my own experiences having a retractable has proven invaluable. Plus I live in the burbs. Loss of people on the sidewalks and cars driving by (some respecting the speed limit, some under some driving too fast..etc.). Being able to just depress a button and stop my dogs in "mid-sprint" was needed. Sometimes I had the other hand free. Other times not.

All I an say is I'm happy I picked up a retractable with a "tape" lead. Much easier to grab at a moments notice (assuming I had the time of course and a free hand. Even for just my almost 16 pound 5 month old Pug. Endless energy when awake. :) Shocking a lot of other dog people and strangers. HEH! But he can walk calmly as well..the other 75% of the time...always exploring/moving/maybe sprinting. :)
 
#24 ·
I think it's people who allow their dog to run around on a retractable lead without any effort to keep the dog even remotely under control that has skewed the perception of retractable leashes. That and the fact that the cheap knock offs of the Flexi lead are cheaply made and break easily, breaks fail, the spool jams, etc on those.
 
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#23 ·
Besoeker, nothing wrong with discussion. I think the problem is you sound a wee bit judgey in some of your posts? You mentioned somewhere on here, "maybe we got lucky with our dog or maybe it's us" (paraphrasing) You betcha you got lucky with your dog! :) He sounds fantastic and while I don't want to dismiss any training you did, you should also be grateful for his temperament and intelligence, which is something he was born with. Perhaps you should go thank his mama, she did a good job too ;)
 
#29 · (Edited)
Besoeker, nothing wrong with discussion. I think the problem is you sound a wee bit judgey in some of your posts?
Just think about that comment for a moment.......

You mentioned somewhere on here, "maybe we got lucky with our dog or maybe it's us" (paraphrasing) You betcha you got lucky with your dog! :)
I think it's very much a two way street. An example I mentioned before, here or elsewhare, was the dog I had growing up. He was very much like the dog we have now. Gentle, even tempered, a joy. By way of contrast, his brother from the same litter was quite mean tempered and bit me. Why such a difference?

He sounds fantastic and while I don't want to dismiss any training you did, you should also be grateful for his temperament and intelligence, which is something he was born with. Perhaps you should go thank his mama*, she did a good job too ;)
The intelligence we had no bearing on. Collies are often top of the tables for intelligence. And he is a good learner. Not a lot of training involved.

The temperament, on the other hand, I do think has something to do with us.
When we got him he was a very shy, nervous dog. It took two people to lift him into the car when we went to collect him. Any loud noise spooked him and he was very wary around other dogs and people.

Now he is so socialied. The only time I see him in the slightest bit agressive is if another big dog gets to close too my wife or I. Defensive might be a better word. There no barking, biting snarling or anything like that. He just gets between us and the other dog and stares it down. Collies have the power of the eye which is one reason they make good sheep dogs.

Back to the question of leads.
In the places where we normally walk, leads are usually not mandatory. There is a large playing field close to us and there are sometimes several footbal (soccer) matches being played. A lead is required then.

One of the other places is Houghton Hall Park which is very popular with dog walkers. It's a good size (over 40 acres) of open spaces and woodland. It is currently undergoing restoration and, if there is moving machinery, the lead goes on. I'm not averse to the use of the lead. Nor is the dog.
"Max, lead" is all the instruction needed.

Other than that, he gets to do what dogs enjoy doing. Runs, sniffs, meets his doggy friends - and their owners. And gets the exercise he needs.

*We don't know his mama or any of his prior history.. He was picked up as a stray by the rescue centre where we got him about a year and a half ago. He's now about two and a half.

Long post by my standards.
 
#27 ·
I'm curious, are retractable leads made differently now? I think the only way they'd be safer than a traditional rope lead is if you had a way to roll the line on your end and rein the dog in...otherwise they can just keep going until you push the lock, but however much slack they were able to get is still there.

It's interesting to see the differences of opinion. I walked my Lab mix on a retractable earlier on in her life, just in low traffic areas, but wasn't a huge fan even though she wasn't a puller or a dasher. Now I walk my dogs on traditional leads - Chisum has a 15 ft BAT lead that really is made of soft rope and I love it. I can let him have some freedom or pull the rope in for more control. I loved it so much that I bought a 6 ft version for Sophie.

But, as long as your dog is safe in your circumstances, to each their own!
 
#28 ·
I used to use them with my two former dogs, one was 44 lbs the other was 24, and I had very good control over them. I could quickly pull them back to me using the break and lock the leads once I had them where i wanted them. I could also lock them off at the length I wanted. I had true Flexi leads though and the break on those are fairly easy to use. I've walked friend's dogs that have retractable leads of other brands and more often then not I've found the locks on those very difficult to use.
 
#33 ·
My new Flexi tape retractable has jammed on occasion now. :p Guess there's no such thing as a 100% problem free retractable. Having tried both a cord and tape variety. Though the cord version didn't start jamming till after I had dropped it maybe 5+ times and dunked it in the loo once. :) Maybe I was lucky with that leash.

Now I'm thinking perhaps the best choice would be just to go with a rope. :) As some one here said "..no parts to break or jam". And it is just a matter of developing a routine. And there's no way for the leash to jump out of your hand if you have the loop around your wrist. Whereas with a retractable you won't always be holding it with a "white knuckle grip"..so when you least expect and the dog sprints..

My only problem with the traditional "rope" leashes is that they only come in 4 and 6 ft lengths. Though, I guess that's just so that you can keep the dog closer to your side. But when you're in a park you might want to give it the chance to roam further than 6 feet. And no I'm not interested in making my own paracord leash. :)

Can some one photo graph their homemade leashes with the hooks and whatever attachments you put on? I'm curious. Perhaps some one's made a YouTube video on it...
 
#34 ·
My new Flexi tape retractable has jammed on occasion now. :p Guess there's no such thing as a 100% problem free retractable. Having tried both a cord and tape variety. Though the cord version didn't start jamming till after I had dropped it maybe 5+ times and dunked it in the loo once.
Maybe I was lucky with that leash.

Now I'm thinking perhaps the best choice would be just to go with a rope.
As some one here said "..no parts to break or jam". And it is just a matter of developing a routine. And there's no way for the leash to jump out of your hand if you have the loop around your wrist. Whereas with a retractable you won't always be holding it with a "white knuckle grip"..so when you least expect and the dog sprints..

My only problem with the traditional "rope" leashes is that they only come in 4 and 6 ft lengths. Though, I guess that's just so that you can keep the dog closer to your side. But when you're in a park you might want to give it the chance to roam further than 6 feet. And no I'm not interested in making my own paracord leash.


Can some one photo graph their homemade leashes with the hooks and whatever attachments you put on? I'm curious. Perhaps some one's made a YouTube video on it...
If you're interested in purchasing a longer leash, check out grishastewart.com. That's where I purchased my 15 ft lead for Chisum and it is AWESOME. She also sells 4 and 6 ft leads and one that has a lot of clips and loops so you can customize.

Also, you can buy 20 or 30 ft leads if you want from pretty much any store that sells dog supplies.
 
#36 ·
Thanks for uploading the photo BrittaS. The loops are so that you can shorten the length?

PoppyKenna...will checkout that website.

Just bought a Kong brand 4 foot bungie cord style material (w/o the elasticity) . Tried it today And seems to work great. Didn't turn out to be that short in use. I assumed it would be. So really a 6 foot length would be more than enough length.

I mean the idea of having a 4 foot length is to keep the dog closer to your side. Which is reassuring as you know your dog won't go beyond that distance. As with a retractable which you're always adjusting. Seems easier to control than a retractable.

With too long a lead dogs (on a retractable cord or tape lead) can get themselves tangled with the leads of another dog when they play. Not likely with this bungie cord type "rope". More rigid but with give.

No parts to fail. The only fails that might happen over a very long time is the cord of the handle maybe becoming unglued (if that was how it was fastened) or the stitching possibly coming apart due to age? But the time that takes I think will not be before the end of my dog's life time.

The Kong bungie cord leash has a rubber grab piece. Maybe over time the rubber might crack at which point I'll probably just add on some foam or leather or just use the cord as it is soft.

I think people who use retractable leashes get suckered into using them believing they are being kinder to the dog giving it more ability to roam and being able to stop them in mid-sprint...assuming the mechanism doesn't jam during.

But with that retract-ability comes...potential for dogs to get tangled with other leads, around tree trunks they circle, branches, could be crossing the street w/o having the lead locked assuming the dog will continue straight across the busy road in a city..not always the case...knowing you only have 4 feet is a kind of reassurance. That the dog won't go beyond that length ever.

Plus, it's harder to bag poop with the retractable leash mechanism in one hand as you need two hands to tie a knot. Not so with the bungie cord leash. Live and learn.

Odd. I always used retractable cord leashes with my other 2 dogs. Don't recall experiencing the same things I am with my 3rd dog (5 mth old Pug). Though my current dog is much higher energy than the other two where when they were puppies and were walked less for some reason.
 
#37 ·
Thanks for uploading the photo BrittaS. The loops are so that you can shorten the length?

...QUOTE]

Exactly, so one snap hook goes on the harness (or color) of the dog and the other one you can hook into whichever D-Ring you want to use and depending on that your handle is longer and the leash shorter, or handler smaller, but leash longer.

I switch, for example, when I walk through a neighborhood through a little shorter length and when I walk next to greenery without front yards, I adjust the leash to be a bit longer.

And if you like the "design" but don't want to do it yourself, there are Etsy sellers out there. I just found it was neat to make it myself (and also a bit cheaper) :)
 
#38 · (Edited)
Personally I don't like flex leashes. Early on one of my young GSD yanked the guts right out of a supposedly good one which resulted in a loose dog in a leash only area. Fortunately he had a very good recall and I got him back quickly. I had to use my belt for a leash.

My ex wife had our Boxer do the same thing. From then on I have used flat leashes of all sorts. Today I have my own industrial sewing machine and make my own custom leashes to fit the dog.

For my Aussie I have an 8 foot single layer 1" nylon leash with a bolt snap. I also have a 30 foot long line of the same material. For out in the fields I have a 100 foot
1/2" flat nylon leash.

Essentially my dog is on leash except in the home and as required in classes.

As for rope leashes I think they are ok as long as you get a good one. The binding is my question. A really good one is joined by weaving the end thru the main part and covered with a heavy heat shrink material or leather then sewen. They are easier on the hands being much softer. If your dog doesn't pull hard they are fine. Usually they appear more than what is required for the dog but they are pretty light for the volumn.

I also use an 18" tab made from 1" flat nylon.the 8 foot goes on the harness with a short connector to the flat collar. The tab has the leash thru it then connected to the prong.

I carry both in my left hand. I wear a light soft leather glove on my left hand and loop the leash handle into a slip knot on my wrist. It's nearly impossible to even drop the long leash. The tab I use only two fingers, mostly to rattle the prong chain. Never a yank or any hard correction. It sounds like a lot of messing around but I've done this so long that it's hard to do it differently.

My dog heels on either side by command and it is a one step switch....it's fast believe me. The little bit longer leash allows a bit of room for this to happen. It also works to let the dog sniff around a little further when released while we are walking. I do use the 30 for one walking in the fields. It's more work managing it and I have to watch for sticker bushes carefully. The really long one is great for working on long recalls,down,sits and send outs.

I use voice,whistle,hand and flashlight signals so the long line gives me the ability to restrain miscues and errors by the dog and to keep her out of danger areas.

I've got some pictures of how this is hooked if anyone is interested.

Byron
 
#40 ·
...
My ex wife had our Boxer do the same thing. From then on I have used flat leashes of all sorts. Today I have my own industrial sewing machine and make my own custom leashes to fit the dog.

For my Aussie I have an 8 foot single layer 1" nylon leash with a bolt snap. I also have a 30 foot long line of the same material. For out in the fields I have a 100 foot
1/2" flat nylon leash.
That is still on my list. I made one nylon (webbing) martingale collar, but it was a PITA. The needle kept breaking, and if the needle was okay, the sewing machine got hiccups. But it is not an industrial one, it's my mom in law's Kenmore (I think). Maybe I should look into a used industrial one.

As for rope leashes I think they are ok as long as you get a good one. The binding is my question. A really good one is joined by weaving the end thru the main part and covered with a heavy heat shrink material or leather then sewen. They are easier on the hands being much softer. If your dog doesn't pull hard they are fine. Usually they appear more than what is required for the dog but they are pretty light for the volumn.
Mine don't have the weaved ending (yet), I don't think the heat shrink is necessary if the weaved ending is done right. The two I posted above were my first two, so getting the hang of it ;)
On top of that Bri is not a big puller, leash trained pretty well, so for my personal use it doesn't need to hold a 200lbs overexcited pulling mastiff :) (and I don't think it would be necessary for a pug either :D )
But you're right, for having a perfect one, the end should be weaved.

...

I've got some pictures of how this is hooked if anyone is interested.

Byron
I'd love to see it!
 
#41 ·
Here is my operation. It looks like I'll have to do multiple posts as I can only load one picture at a time. I must be missing something.

This is my training shirt. I just cut material out of an old tee shirt for the pocket. I copied a hoodie pocket. These work great when it's warm or in classes to put treats in. You can use messy one like chicken,liver,and hot dog slices.

My industrial sewing machine is gross over kill for this light weight material. A home machine would make these really nice.

Sorry it's upside down, don't know what happened.
 

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#47 ·
Poop bag and water bottle. I have nice back pack too but we only use that for the really long walks.

I now pick up the keys and two small hotdog treats. I have Sam sit and wait at the door, I open the door step out and " invite" Sam to come out. " come on" is the command. It only takes her about two seconds to pop out the door and come to a sit right at the door. I give her the first treat with praise. Then lock the door, put the keys in my pocket then with just a little swirl of my hand she comes to heel while I gather thermos and iPad or other stuff. As we start I tell to heel nice and give her the second treat.

I don't know why I can only post one picture at a time. I need some technology.
 

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#48 ·
Industrial sewing machine.
I have a Consew 226 R. These will sew thru 1/4 inch plywood! The noise is unbelievable. I just had to try it. It will also sew fingers very well! Before I installed the servo motor which runs slower, I accidentally got my finger in the way. It put three or four stitches along side my finger nail then went another couple inches before it stopped. Dang that hurt!

It doesn't even slow down on dog leashes. I've sewn a five inch cargo strap and it just goes thru like a piece of silk.

A used one is about $600

Back to dog stuff.
 
#50 ·
@Bentwings I love the leash and tab idea!

Thanks a bunch for the detailed description and also for the info on the sewing machine (I'll try to not sew my hand permanently to the leash... :D )!
 
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