Dog sits down during loose leash training This is a discussion on Dog sits down during loose leash training within the Dog Training forums, part of the Keeping and Caring for Dogs category; Hello,
First time poster
My dog is four years old and I've been trying for years off and on to train him to loose leash ...
07-01-2010, 10:02 PM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 220
| Dog sits down during loose leash training Hello,
First time poster
My dog is four years old and I've been trying for years off and on to train him to loose leash walk. I use a step in harness and a 6 foot leash. I learned to stand still like a tree every time the dog pulls the leash tight. But I've read that the dog is supposed to either loosen up or turn towards its owner. Simon doesn't seem to do either of these things. When he pulls on the leash and I stop, he will either just stand there pulling back on the leash, waiting for me to move, OR he will sit down which loosens the leash, at which point I start walking again.
It seems that he has learned to associate me stopping with me wanting him to sit down. He sits down really quickly too so that the leash goes from being taught to him sitting quickly so that I don't have the chance to start walking as soon as he begins to sit down (and loosens his pull on the leash).
I've also tried using words like "good" and "easy" while he IS walking in a loose leash manner and then stopping with those words as soon as he pulls. Then I start up with the words again when he slackens the lead.
I admit that I haven't been patient enough over the years to stick with the training and that's why he is 4 years old and still pulls.
Have I indirectly taught him to sit if I stop when he pulls instead of loose leash walk?
How to I try to get him out of this habit of sitting down when I stand like a tree?
I've also tried the changing directions method but he will just catch up to me and pull the leash each time.
Thanks. |
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07-01-2010, 11:09 PM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 9,870
| The last part there is what you need to continue doing...at times I turned around so much I got dizzy but they eventually got it. Posted via Mobile Device |
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07-02-2010, 09:12 AM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 220
| Thanks for the replies.
I've already seen those videos and that thread when I did a search before I posted. I noticed that the dogs in the videos are younger dogs. My dog is 4. How do I apply these training methods to an older dog? Do I start back at square one in the bathroom (or other small space)? I've tried putting Simon on a leash in the house or backyard and he doesn't pull in those situations. He pulls like crazy during walks though and especially when he sees/approaches other dogs (I think that's called leash/barrier aggression? I still have to read up on that one too  ).
So just start from scratch again?
Also, I didn't want to have to start with a clicker. Is the training method in the video effective without the clicker? Simon has had no clicker training before and I wonder if I could introduce it just to teach loose leash walking. |
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07-02-2010, 05:13 PM
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#5 | | Dog Forum Team Member
Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: California...in the mountains
Posts: 15,871
| you CAN teach an old dog new tricks  i really like clicker training and find it very effective... you could use it just to teach this method and not for other things if you want... i'd that this particular method requires a clicker, and yes, start from scratch, in the bathroom... the point of this method is to teach the dog to respond to pressure in a different way, ever hear of "opposition reflex" it is a reflex to automatically pull against something that pulls on the dog, or to push into something that pushes, you can try it for your self, you don't have to push or pull very hard, and the dog sorta auto pulls/pushes... anyway, this method teaches the dog that when he gets to the end of the leash, and feels that pressure, he should move towards the pull, not pull away from it...
start from scratch... do many repetitions in each place, and slowly add in distractions... as suggested use some sort of anti-pull management harness in the mean time...
the pulling on the leash as you describe doesn't sound like it is barrier aggression exactly yet, BUT the frustration of not getting to properly meet and greet the other dog, and the complications of the leash interrupting the dog's natural body language can IMO create/build up to aggression...
with all methods you use, it is always important to get it down in a low distraction area first, then slowly add in the distractions later... every time you add a distraction, you should lower your criteria until you build up your success rate with that distraction...
hope all that made sense... |
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07-03-2010, 12:52 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 220
| Thanks, the instructions sound clear enough in thoery. It'll be interesting to see how things play out in reality |
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07-03-2010, 06:07 PM
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#7 | | Dog Forum Team Member
Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: California...in the mountains
Posts: 15,871
| sweet! i'd love to hear of any progress you make |
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08-22-2010, 09:34 PM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 220
| I admit: I haven't tried silky leash training yet
BUT, I am wondering since I will be starting soon...
If I start in small steps like in the bathroom, then in a larger room, then backyard, etc., won't the dog be confused when I have to take it on full walks and it still pulls?
I mean, if I start with training him in the bathroom, I'll have to stay at that stage for a few days. But in the meantime, he will be pulling on lead when I walk him daily. So how is he gonna figure out that I'm training him to not pull when we go out for walks? Maybe he will just think its a game we play but then on "for real" walks he will not apply it?
Also, when doing the training, I should remove the harness, right? But during real walks I need to use the harness to control the pulling. So when do I transition from no harness during training to no harness during walking on real walks? |
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08-22-2010, 09:39 PM
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#9 | | Dog Forum Team Member
Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: California...in the mountains
Posts: 15,871
| Quote:
I admit: I haven't tried silky leash training yet 
BUT, I am wondering since I will be starting soon...
If I start in small steps like in the bathroom, then in a larger room, then backyard, etc., won't the dog be confused when I have to take it on full walks and it still pulls?
I mean, if I start with training him in the bathroom, I'll have to stay at that stage for a few days. But in the meantime, he will be pulling on lead when I walk him daily. So how is he gonna figure out that I'm training him to not pull when we go out for walks? Maybe he will just think its a game we play but then on "for real" walks he will not apply it?
| you are going to do the training with a flat collar and use the harness for real walks while you are training... he will know the difference... Quote: |
Also, when doing the training, I should remove the harness, right? But during real walks I need to use the harness to control the pulling. So when do I transition from no harness during training to no harness during walking on real walks?
| once the dog gets it in the smaller spaces etc, you move up slowly, so you are going to gradually move the training to more open spaces... i would keep the harness on him for a while at first then you can switch back and forth, i would use some of the other techniques to prevent pulling when you are walking as well (direction changes, the "tree" etc)
does that make sense? |
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08-23-2010, 08:42 PM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 220
| Okay thanks. I think the flat collar and harness tip was what I was looking for. Changing directions and "tree" don't work |
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